If the numbers were SAE corrected elevation wouldnt matter.

 

big cam + lower static compression = very low dynamic compression = sitty combustion, throttle responce and of coarse power... not 100hp though

and then if his valves have been unshrouded... there are more problems (if he didn't account for increased cc's in the chambers)

 

I know how it works, but I was just making the point that there are alot of big cams out there that would cause even more bleedoff. I dont think 10:1 versus an LT1's 10:4 is the problem. People often say that raising the compression yields very little in terms of power.

 

there is just a point of demishing returns..
like i said, no 100hp losses.. but you ever see a s/c motor run without the blower?

 

Nope, compression is not the factor here. My first 383, I had his exact same setup, 383 with CC 224/230, 10.1:1 cr and mild ported AFR 195's. The car still made 402rwhp/385rwtq. Sounds like you got other issues, unless thats the readings from a mustang dyno. But even then they are low.

Jose

 

BUBBA's stupid response of the day:

Too much porting.

 

Thanks again guys, alot of good info.The dyno was a dyno jet, as for the opti i dont think that is a problem I dont feel any kind of a miss, and according to the graph was smooth all the way to 6700.
the valves were unshrouded and put the chamber at 62cc. the guy who did the heads has been doing this for some 40 years. beautiful work but they were done with the blower in mind. So is it possible like bubba said about to much porting, and would a bigger cam be the way to go to keep up with the heads, or am I looking at another blower or just starting over with the whole damn thing if so i'll have some parts for sale soon.

Thanks again nate

 

I would dyno tune it. I had an ed wright tune on my hotcammed stock short block motor last fall. it pulled 329whp and 299wtq. The torque seemed real low to me.I had it tuned by a guy in our local car club it runs much better. I havent had the chance to get the tune finished on the dyno yet, but it runs 100 percent better.
Hope this helps,
Kory

 

you need to stop guessing and get a scan tool on it. At this point youve dumped enough money into it that another $60 for a cable isn't gonna hurt any. Then download a scanner and check it out.

A blower tune is probably hurting you as well, so it wouldn't hurt at all to get another tune, especially a dyno tune. If nothing else, send the tuner a dyno graph and a scantool output (preferably of the same time the dyno graph was made) and go from there.