I was curious if I could use something else besides a crankshaft puller in order to get the pulley off of the hub. I am in the process of breaking down my engine and I am just trying to get the opti and the pulley off at this point.

Thanks!

 

When the cars are new, the pulley/damper just falls off when you remove the 3 bolts. Its the 10 years of rust that makes a puller necessary in most cases. Soak the center of the hub liberally with penetrating oil, and let it sit for 24 hours. Then try some gentle taps of a hammer on the inside edges of the pulley/damper. You don't want to hammer on the outer edge, or attach the puller to the outer edge, since you can damage the rubber ring between the inner and outer metal rings.

 

Sounds good. I will give it the good ol, pb blaster and see what happens.

 

your gonna need to pull the hub too if im not mistaken. so you might as well pull them both at the same time. do you have an autozone near you? if so rent a puller for a day.thats what i just did today.

 

I called Napa and they sell them for 20 bucks. So I guess I will just pick one up tomorrow.

Btw, would this work? They are still open for another 20 min.

 

You will need a 3 jaw puller for the pulley, if it won't come off any other way.

pic

 

Thanks shoebox. Yah, I was looking at your site. I didnt see any place in town that had a 3 tooth puller. I only have napa and schucks here.

Guess I may have to order it online.

Perhaps...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ayphotohosting

 

Only the Damper needs to come off for an opti replacement, not the hub too..
My stock damper came off OK with out any puller..

 

Ok, I went to sears and purchased a harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller. I explained what tool I needed and I believe the store worker pursuaded me to purchase the wrong puller! Please HELP!

I purchased this tool. It looks like it bolts into the hub as well. I tried it and I can not get the hub or pulley to come off. The pulley still spins.

Here is the puller they sold me. A craftsman, but real close to the one below.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=43996

This is what I have tried. I have tried using the long bolt that came with the kit and placing it in the middle bolt area. It threads into the puller and then it threads into the hub. I then took 3 head bolts and used them for the 3 pulley bolts that thread into the hub. I tried putting something in between the pulley and the block to stop the hub/pulley from spinning, but It is not backing out the hub/pulley together or just the pulley. I need both the hub and pulley off and this tool just seems as though its not the correct tool for the job.

Any help would be appreciated. I also tried tapping the pulley with a hammer and it wont budge. I might have even bent the pulley. I will know for sure once I get it off.

 

You can pull them both at the same time, if you want. That is, if you are going to pull the hub anyway. Please listen to people on this board and not a salesman at Sears that probably took the bus to work.

You MUST put a longer grade 8 bolt in place of the hub bolt or a hardened rod for the puller to push against. Put your transmission in 4th gear and put the parking brake on. That should keep the engine from spinning.

There have been hundreds of posts about pulley and hub removal.

 

The engine is on a stand. I am trying to break it down to a bare block so I can get it bored, honed etc. This hub/balancer assembly is just kicking my ***. The bolt that comes with the kit seems as though it goes pretty far down into the hub. But the hub and pulley just want to keep spinning, and I dont wanna mess up the aluminum block.

Here is another picture of the hub/pulley puller that I purchased. I took this picture from an old thread, but this one looks exactly like the one I am using.



I guess I will take my digital camcorder down and record what im doing so you can let me know what I am doing wrong.

 

K, give me 10 minutes. I have to run and get a usb cable for my digital camcorder then I will post the link to view the movie of me screwing up.

 

If there is a flywheel on it, jam a block of wood between the teeth and block to hold it. If no flywheel, you are going to have to get creative.

Heed what I said about putting in a longer bolt for the puller to push against. Otherwise the puller will just push on the end of the hub, itself, and try to break the hub apart.

 

Beware of ruining the crank snout threads, however you do it[many HAVE]
Also LT1's are iron blocks, not aluminum [you probably meant the timing cover.. that's alum]

 

crap. Yeah the flywheel is off of the block. Doh on me like 1000 times. I now cant find my imaging software for my camcorder. So much for the film I took... I need imagemixer 1.0

Oh well. I guess I will take my hammer to hit and get creative!