My car is a 96, but it was converted to OBDI. I know the crank sensor in the timing cover is pretty much useless now other than to plug a hole. I have the motor apart right now and was curious if I need to re-install the reluctor wheel when I put it back together, or if I can just leave it out

 

Leaving it out will move the damper hub back by that thickness and misalign your accessory drive belt. You need a earlier hub if you want to leave the reluctor out.

 

So a hub from say a 95 will do the trick?
wait a minute, when I press the hub back on, doesn't it stop when the inside edge gets even with the crank snout where the bolt goes, and not necessarily when it bottoms out on the reluctor wheel? If I'm right about that, wont it just leave a space the thickness of the reluctor wheel between the hub and the timing gear? Please correct me if I'm wrong...

 

It will tighten up all the way against the timing gear on the crank, you either have to use an earlier longer hub, or a spacer, or the reluctor wheel.

 

just put it back on and forget about it. its not like its going to be a problem sitting on there.

 

Yes, if not going with a double roller chain it can be put in again. If going with an earlier hub, the crank key must also be change or the current one modified.

 

Yeah, I think I will take your advice. Its alot cheaper than a $50 hub to run without it thanks everyone

 

put it back together yet? ill trade ya your stuff with the crank trigger for all my 95 stuff without...i do have a fluiddamper instead of stock hub so ide need a little money along with the trade

--reason why, im going with a piggybacked ecu which needs a crank sensor input, and the opti itself does not suffice, it needs an input like what this crank sensor puts out

 

Ok well I have an ASP balancer, but that doesn't matter because I took it off of the hub. I would be willing to trade, just take your fluiddamper off of your hub. You have a PM.

 

He can't take the fluidamper off the hub, fluidampers and ati superdampers are one piece hub and balancer assemblies

 

The 96-97 balancer hub is shorter than the 93-95 pieces. It will bottom out and be fine if the reluctor is not there.

Mines been gone for 2 years now. I have 2 complete earlier motors and the earlier hubs are longer by the thickness of the reluctor.

 

Well, I guess you learn something new everyday

 

how many teeth are on the reluctor wheel? (how many times will it signal per revolution) and if its okay with you, ill trade my fluidamper your 96 hub and asp ballancer...it is sfi certified right?

 

sfi certified...I dunno, I bought it like 5 years ago the reluctor wheel has 4 teeth on it. I have no idea what you fluidamper looks like, is it balancer/pulley/hub all in one? what diameter is the pulley?

 

yes it is all one peice, pully is stock size i believe