Crank question
Crank question
I am trying to accumulate stroker parts on a budget and I was wondering if a forged crank is essential. I am going be running a decent sized cam (solid roller) w/ longtubes, stage 2 heads from combo-motorsports,ported intake manifold, ported 58mm tb, blah blah....I don't know if I am going to need a forged one or if the cast crank would be ok for my setup....lemme know what you think. Jason
Re: Crank question
No you don't need a forged crank.
Scat9000 will do you just fine. "smokindastangs"? What do you run, anyways?
www.adperformance.com , Give Brian a holler, he can get you a good deal.
Scat9000 will do you just fine. "smokindastangs"? What do you run, anyways?

www.adperformance.com , Give Brian a holler, he can get you a good deal.
Re: Crank question
What about this crank?
EAGLE Part Number: 103503750i
Main diameter: 2.449
Rod diameter: 2.100
Stroke: 3.750
Balance: Internal
Seal Type: Two Piece
Bobweight: 1870
Rod length minimum: 6.00
EAGLE Part Number: 103503750i
Main diameter: 2.449
Rod diameter: 2.100
Stroke: 3.750
Balance: Internal
Seal Type: Two Piece
Bobweight: 1870
Rod length minimum: 6.00
Re: Crank question
Is this the one that you are referring to?
Scat Part number 9-350-3750-5700
CNC-MOTORSPORTS IS YOUR AUTHORIZED SCAT MASTER W/D DEALER
Scat Crankshaft specs
3.750 Stroke Crankshaft - 383 -
5.700" Is the Minimum Connecting rod length required -
External balanced - Must be balanced prior to assembly
2.450" Main Journals - STD
2.100" Rod Journal - STD
2 Piece Real Main Seal
Scat Part number 9-350-3750-5700
CNC-MOTORSPORTS IS YOUR AUTHORIZED SCAT MASTER W/D DEALER
Scat Crankshaft specs
3.750 Stroke Crankshaft - 383 -
5.700" Is the Minimum Connecting rod length required -
External balanced - Must be balanced prior to assembly
2.450" Main Journals - STD
2.100" Rod Journal - STD
2 Piece Real Main Seal
Re: Crank question
I highly recommend a forged crank on a stroker motor. The main reason is the LT1 is internally balanced on the front and externally balanced on the rear. When you go to balance your new crank, unless you have ultralight rods and pistons you would need to put heavy metal (tungsten) in the front half of the crank to balance it. By the time you do that you have already reached the price of a forged crank. You can balance the forged crank internally on the front and externally on the rear if you cut off a lot of weight on the rear counterweights but I typically just neutral balance the flexplate or flywheel to get a totally internally balanced unit.
Re: Crank question
You're going to need a balance. Period.
FWIW I'm running a Scat9000 crank, Scat 4340 Forged I-beam Rods, and SRP forged pistons. I didn't need any material added, I actually had quite a bit taken out.
"They" say Scat 9000 is good to ~700 crank HP N/A...
FWIW I'm running a Scat9000 crank, Scat 4340 Forged I-beam Rods, and SRP forged pistons. I didn't need any material added, I actually had quite a bit taken out.
"They" say Scat 9000 is good to ~700 crank HP N/A...
Re: Crank question
Yes you will need your new crank balanced. You will need to bring with you your new pistons, rings, at least one pair of rod bearings and your rods. Most shops charge around $200 to balance the whole assembly. It is not something you can do on your own ...unless you have a crank balancer in your garage...
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