My motor is basically put together, but I was just looking closer at the crank hub and noticed that I probably have a problem.
It's a 97 LT1 with a new forged Scat Crank. I removed the CPS reluctor ring and also used a standard crank key rather than the LT1 specific. I'm pretty sure the hub snout is going to hit the key before it seats correctly.

So should I remove the timing cover and crank gear to put the correct key in it? Should I notch the hub so it slides past the woodruff key? I don't want to have any aligment problems where I'm shredding serpentine belts

 

To my knowledge, you will need a different key.

 

You could also use an aftermarket LT1 keyed hub. I'm using the Jeg's brand keyed hub and SFI under-drive damper.

WD

 

Wouldn't the rotating assembly need balanced again if I went this route?

 

No one seems to have these keys in stock. It looks like I'm done working on this thing until Tuesday. Or I can continue beating on the stock one and hope it finally pops out--its getting pretty chewed up though. Dal at VanDevere is my last hope but it's hardly worth driving 2 hours to get there for a $6 part!

 

No! LT engines use a harmonic “damper” not a “balancer” on the front crank hub. And, I don’t believe dampers ever have to be balanced (to match) with the crank. I like using the keyed LT-1 type hub so you don’t have to worry about it slipping, if you ever need the timing reference.


WD