LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

crank hub removal

Old Nov 5, 2008 | 04:10 PM
  #1  
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crank hub removal

Ok i got longer 7/16 bolts to thread into the hub for the puller to be attached. But now when you tighten the screw to start the puller, how do you keep the crank from turning? This is my first rebuild and im not quite sure what to do.
Old Nov 5, 2008 | 04:26 PM
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What happens when you put it in gear.
Old Nov 5, 2008 | 04:35 PM
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BTW: if you do put it in gear, be sure to put the E brake on if it is on blocks or jack stands. If the tranny is in gear and the rear wheels locked, the crank should not turn without a great deal of torque. Be careful when working under car. Make certain it is on solid blocks;/stands, etc.
Old Nov 5, 2008 | 04:38 PM
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Don't bottom out that bolt in the crank hub. You will end up messing those threads up pretty bad. Trust me, you do not want that to happen.
Old Nov 5, 2008 | 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by seawolf06
Don't bottom out that bolt in the crank hub. You will end up messing those threads up pretty bad. Trust me, you do not want that to happen.
Been there, done that. What I use is a standard 1/4" extension. I stick it in the crank, then use a regular balancer puller. You can also use a longer bolt, but DO NOT thread it into the crank. You want one smaller than the stock bolt, and make sure it is grade 8. I've bend grade 5 bolts trying that.
Old Nov 5, 2008 | 09:31 PM
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I've read posts where people get the large end of an extension stuck in the hub bolt hole. I'd use something that has no possibility of doing that. I use a long head bolt with the threads ground smooth.
Old Nov 5, 2008 | 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by shoebox
I've read posts where people get the large end of an extension stuck in the hub bolt hole. I'd use something that has no possibility of doing that. I use a long head bolt with the threads ground smooth.
Wow, really? I've never heard of that. Maybe if you stuck the extension in wide end first. But I put the skinny end in, so there's no chance of that.
Old Nov 5, 2008 | 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Green96Z
Wow, really? I've never heard of that. Maybe if you stuck the extension in wide end first. But I put the skinny end in, so there's no chance of that.
No, when the hub pulls out the fat end get jammed in the hole. Seen it posted many times. This is, of course, when people don't watch what they are doing (which is commonplace). It's hard to give advice that people can't screw up.
Old Nov 6, 2008 | 08:35 AM
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Well I got the motor out of the car and the trans is off the block too. So putting it in gear won't work.
Old Nov 6, 2008 | 08:50 AM
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Just use a long screw driver and place it inbetween two of the bolts that you screwed into the hub. You can use one hand on the ratchet or impact gun and the other holding the screw driver so it doesn't turn. Hopefully you understand what I'm talking about, if not maybe someone else can explain or I can us MS paint to edit one of my pictures.
Old Nov 6, 2008 | 09:23 AM
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Well now, that is a different story. So you will have to reinstall the engine in the car and then put it in gear....
Old Nov 6, 2008 | 10:57 AM
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ya reinstall the engine that's a good one. I do know what you mean about the screwdriver. I'm at work now so I'll try it when I get home. Thanks guys
Old Nov 6, 2008 | 02:10 PM
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use a impact gun it shouldnt spin
Old Nov 6, 2008 | 03:17 PM
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Even with an impact it will spin if sitting on an engine stand. Really it's more of a slow vibrating spin, but still.
Old Nov 6, 2008 | 03:39 PM
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Wedge a block of wood between the flywheel and the engine block.

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