So I just installed the Hypertech 160 thermostat, and now after idling the radiator hose is completely cold and there's no coolant in it, even after I re-filled the system with coolant. I might've not positioned the new thermostat correctly, does somebody have a pic of what it looks like? Yes, I checked shoebox's website, but didn't see any photos of installing the 160 degree thermo...

Anybody like to help?

PS, the engine was overheating, and once I turned it off all that came out of the foremost bleed screw was a hiss of steam.

 

I only goes in 1 way.

Did you bleed out all of the air out of the block?

 

If you mean remove the engine block drain plug and knock sensor to drain the engine of coolant - no. The radiator drain plug was corroded, so I used a hose on the LH side of the engine to drain about a gallon or so of coolant. Then proceeded to change the thermostat, eventually filling the coolant back in thru the radiator cap area...

 

No, ther are bleeder valves on the heater hose and the temp housing. See if this helps http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#radflush

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#thermostat_change

 

You must have had your eyes closed.

 

The dipstick in the coolant reservoir reads Full Hot when the engine temp according to the gauge is less than a 1/4 of the scale. I took the radiator cap off and ran the car, and the coolant level stayed lower than the top of the filler neck, and remained cold and inactive. I am really clueless about what the deal is, my only guess is that there's an air lock in the system somewhere.... I really want to get this figured out tonight before I go to bed. Should I just idle the car and see if it gets near the red zone?

 

yes, just don't let it get too hot. you more than likely won't see any water flowing until the temp opens. When the cauge reads 180 you'll know for surethat is is open.

 

Thanks man. Not completely solved yet, but much closer now. I idled it for a minute, then drove around the block for a few minutes, during which the temp gauge was a little more than an 1/8th of the way up. The good news is that when I felt the radiator hose it was hot, and I could hear coolant squirt when I squeezed it. But the bad news is that I still don't get ANYTHING out of the bleeder screws. I mean I took them completely off with the engine running, and absolutely nothing comes out. I figure it must be something similar to the heat/cool cycles shoebox talks about on his webpage, since it seems to progress each time I start it up, then shut it down, then start it up again, etc.

 

When the engine is cool, open the bleeder screws and use a funnel to add water/coolant to the radiator, use a large diameter funnel so you can keep water at a level that's higher than the rest of the cooling system. You should hear the bleeder screws hiss as the air is forced out of the lines. Keep adding fluid until you get a solid stream of water/coolant from the bleeders. Close the bleeders and remove the funnel, a little water will probably spill around the radiator which isn't a big problem. You will probably need to do this several times over a few days to get all the air out of the system.

 

I usually fill radiator until no more coolant will go in, then open bleeder screws (cold engine) at that time you will hear air escaping, keep filling radiator until no more coolant will go in, close bleeder screws. Get engine to operating temperature, open bleeder screws again until steady flow of coolant appears, close bleeder screws. When engine cools off, top off radiator with coolant, top off recovery jug, then you are done, thats how I do it.

 

If you have the bleeder screws open when you fill the radiator, very little air will remain to purge later.

Keep checking the level at the radiator when it is cold (like first thing in the morning). Top off the radiator, keep an eye on your temp gauge and do it all over again until the radiator remains full.

 

If you are having a corotion problem, you may have pluged up the new thermastat. Check to see if it is clean and try flushing the system.

 

I just posted a very very simlar problem question.I also just installed a 160 stat and didn't drain entire cooling system either.Just put towels around therm and threw it in there and did tb bypass at same time.I looked in owners manual and it said open bleed screws when it was cold and not running.I got fluid out of the lower screw but none out of the top.I was using a short funnel.I then figured shut lower bleed and leave top open and filled rad but it wouldn't leak coolant.I left rad cap off and ran engine and lots came out the rad and spilled on car ,in fact so much that was worried had a blown rad hose or something leaking under there.But no.

Tonight talked to lt1 buddy and he said to use a high funnel.
And he said to just run car with rad cap open for at least 20 minutes.I did that and idled it and also temp gauge barely moved ,tried heat and it was good.It is colder here like 32 F maybe tonight mabye 20 F.
I then revved it up to 2000 or so and finally got the gauge to move it moved up maybe a third of way.Then coolant started running out of cap again quite a bit.I decided to put cap back on and drove car for extended drive.It held temp if anything temp moved down to near end of dail showing 80 C or so..

But still a bit worried so will likely try some more bleeding as not confident yet in this bleeding all the air.

I felt upper rad hose and it was finally hot but kept rad cap on as car was hot and didn't want to check coolant when it was very hot.

If the upper rad hose is hot and the car has lots of heat and the temp gauge is staying under the first mark driving around am I good to go or is more bleeding necessary..How do you know its all bleed out..? I hate this reverse cooling crap.My other cars are much simpler.

 

So if you do this after your car sits over night you basically don't have to drain anything at all? It is just a simple plug and play job. Am I right or is it neccessary to bleed it anyway? I am about to do this tomorrow myself.

 

did u fill up the wp with coolant before u put the stat in i did it that way, then filled rest thru the radiator.if u drained all coolant from block then that would be a gaint air buble when u just filled the radiator .