Seems like you need to work this out between the two of you. I don't think you're going to get a lot of sympathy on a public forum. It all comes across as a lot of "he said.... she said".

JMHO

 

Hi everyone. Im brand new here and realize this thread is REALLLY!!! old, but was wondering if anyone knows if jacob cook is still in business and how to contact. I did a LOT of research a few years ago, got tons of references, etc, and spoke repeatedly and extensively w jake b4 buying. I bought an engine from him back in 2010 that is YET to get into my car. I KNOW I KNOW. Back then, got layed off work, got project based IT jobs but traveled alot, got married, etc etc. I have had motor entire time in climate controlled garage. Everything has been sealed or plugged, and I periodically turn motor over manually (w/socket and driver. I just got a grade 8 bolt, threaded it in, and turn over occassionally and motor turns, seems smooth, etc.) I went all out w/it. I got his (4get actual name he advertised/ called it) competition forged 396 Lt1. Upgraded from eagle to compstar rotating assembly. 4 bolt splayed main., added AFR heads, had him port match stock intake and port for 58mm TB etc etc, and he assembled entire engine (If people want exact engine specs I can provide). I'm finally in a position to install. Ive been collecting everything else such as stainless works long tube headers, msd pro billet ignition (supposedly this eliminates the factory problem of h2o pump leaking and ruining the optispark bc msd is sealed), spec stage 5 clutch, about to get the stage 3 tick shift t-56 upgrade so tranny will hold, etc etc. I could go on forever. Just between life and collecting everything I need to do this RIGHT it has taken me forever, Not to mention MAJOR $$$$. I plan on leaving in the stock rear just until BOOM (lol) which should be first time I hook, but could survive a little while as long as I don't (which I doubt) at which time I can't really decide bt 12bolt or dana60 complete rear assembly (open to ideas here). Anyway, guy was really helpful w/advice, etc even long after purchase as far as what I should include on car build, which were things not obtained from/profitable for him and I really kinda trusted his advice. He seemed to be one of the few that didnt think I was wasting my time w a lt platform instead of getting an ls car and starting over. If anyone knows his business situation, contact info id appreciate it. Once again, sorry I know this is a very old thread and im rambling but this is about the only place I saw info on cook performance when i googled it. cpengines.com obviously is gone, as is old phone number i had. Oh yeah, all going in 96, t-top trans-am w/functional Ram air hood from suncoast creations (basically the 98-02 hood w/bigger scoops made to fit 93-97 ta) Im also up to just talking about this car w/anyone interested) Thanks ahead of time, and I'vw been enjoying reading this forum today/tonight tho I just joined

 

What were you going to ask him?

Preemptively - the motor should be fine to start even after sitting that long if it was put together with assembly lube in all the right places and a light coat of oil on the cylinder walls. I build all my motors to sit for extended periods of time even though I would prefer they didn't, but plenty of times cars end up in body shop hell and don't emerge for years...got one back just this year for break in and dyno that sat in a non temperature controlled garage for over eight years and it had no issues.

Just assuming that was going to be your question.

 

Hi, I assumed motor was fine, as Im SURE he used assembly lube correctly. I think me squirting a little oil in plug holes and rotating motor occassionally is just a mental thing 4 me LOL. But whe I do, everything spins over smoothly. Plus, there are NO places for outside air to enter motor) One thing I wondered was how extreme I should go w/ tranny build. He recommended using tick shift, but beyond their stage 1-3 builds, they also offer MANY additional options. Jake haid said this motor (has ALMOST 12:1 comp, the stage 3 cnc comp port AFR heads, etc etc and he implied motor should make atleast around 550hp, possible near 600 w/ VERY aggressive tune since im running a manual. I really wanted to know who I should get to do computer tune (maybe just a baseline to get car running, and if anyone knew of a place relatively close to me (savannah, ga) to get a final dyno fine tune. By close, I mean, Atlanta, Jacksonville, just a reasonable (up to 4hr drive) It seems everyone bad mouths one anothers shops unfortunately. I know my buddy has had good success at EFI Alchemy in jacksonville (check out their facebook page (one w/bowtie as pic bc there are 2) his car is the black ss on dyno w/turbo making 840hp to tires!! I should also add Im planning on running 200 shot (he was very specific on how much spray i planned to use for ring gapping etc when building and jake seemed VERY thorough concerning the build) I also wanted input on rear ends. 1 bolt? dana?, ford 9in? Prices are relatively close and looking for advice/experience. Also, anyone know how to contact jake, what happenned to him? still in bus? I know I am responding to ur response to me WAY late but just didn't realize someone responded. I can be contacted directly at joe1978c@yahoo.com (hope giving emails out allowed here) and I am also interested if anyone has a built manual or complete rear that will fit my 96 T/A (think rears fit all f bodies 82-02, 6-spd not positive but open to purchase if anyone has for sale. thanks in advance

 

MachinistOne , that last post was intended for u to see and help clarify what I wanted to know. I also sent u a message bc I didnt know if u would see it (hope u dont mind) I didnt know if site emailed us when a new reponse of apost was made, as I dont remember getting one and know my post AND ur response were quite old. Thanks and hope u dont mind email.

 

as for rear ends I went with a strange dana 60 and I dont regret it or have anything bad to say. Went in very easy and nice. Probably have 30000 miles on it now. Did have to modify my aftermarket torque arm slightly and couldn't go over it with my dual 3" exhaust. Still have to put my aftermarket lca on but dont think there will be any isue there. Thats what I would choose if I had your setup as you probably have a 100 hp more than me and I wont spray more than 200.


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I'm really not the guy to answer those drive train questions, I think there's several options for drop in F-body rear ends including the 12 bolts and dana 60's like were mentioned above, don't know if there's a drop in 9", but if there is that would be my choice because I've used them extensively in my Mustangs.

No answer on transmission build - I know there's some shops that specialize in upgrading the T56 so an online search would be best.

You might want to ask in the regional section for a shop to do your tune work, obviously it's extremely important in breaking in your new motor and keeping it alive so make sure to get references and be very thorough with the tuner about what you need to be safe with a nitrous tune.