Ya, I think I need to change my underwear now...thats sick. I can't imagine what it would sound like through my cutout. But that exhaust setup is also the same exact one I will have.

When your guiding the cam out and putting the new one in, if you nick a bearing or rub one the wrong way are you just ****ed? And what about the degreeing I commonly hear people say you "should do" but people don't???

 

What sucks is I just put another stock clutch in because I was having problems w/ the mccleod single disk and needed my car quick. I'm pretty sure after my upgrades it's going to slip like mad...It has an Lt4 pp but it's an autozone clutch. Think it'll hold for a bit?

 

For the mods you have planned, you should be fine.

 

Haha, thanks man. I have a cutout but was too worried about checkin for noises to have it open.

 

****...I didn't realize that was your car. very Nice! What springs did you run w/ the hotcam? Do you think I can re-use my LT4 locks/retainers?

 

I ran the whole hotcam kit. I dunno about the locks and retainers though, I'd stick around and see what someone else says.

 

Since you are that deep, go for it with the understanding of a few things.

Many guys including myself found the the front cam bearing worn out upon removing the stock cam. After looking deeper I found wear on the others. This contributes to lower oil pressure and the potential to spin one which is very bad for the new cam, block and maybe some other stuff.

Here was my front cam bearing with only 74K miles very well cared for miles:


The stock cam cam can continue to work well with worn bearings at the expense of again slightly lower oil pressure since they are worn down together. I decided NOT to slip the new cam into worn bearings so I pulled the motor and rebuilt it.

The other bad thing that happens when you start making way more power is the rod bearings are subjected to more of a beating and if they are worn and riding the fine line then you might get knocking which means pulling the motor for a rebuild. Again the worn bearings tend to work well with the original component that caused the wear but when something new is thrown in the mix all bets are off.

Just be aware and be ready if things don't go like you want them either during install or afterward. Have money and transportation arranges f things go to hell. Some guys get lucky and others do not.

Knowing what I know now about how big a PITA it is to install headers, heads and a cam I would just drop the K-member w/ motor and tranny attached out the bottom. This gives very easy access to everything required with no cussing, bloody knuckles and aggravation. I can drop my motor out by myself in an hour and a half.

As far as springs, get something better than LT4's go with a good beehive like the PAC or similar. It appears that Comp has fixed the issue with their beehives too. Daily driver cam I would co CC503 over the hot cam, but the hot cam is good as well.

Just my 2 cents.

 

Well I do not have the money nor time to rebuild anything. If thats the case I'll stick the old cam back in before I do any rebuilding. My engine only have 42k on it, granted they were probably a hard 42k. Is the cc305 milder than the hotcam or vice versa? As long as my front cam bearing doesnt look to worn am I good to go?

 

yes, the HC has a little more chop at idle due to the tighter LSA, but both perform relatively equal, with the edge going to the 305 due to the fact that it is a larger cam. I ran the 305 for a couple years on the stock shortblock with no issues, and it performed well, got good mileage and it is easy on parts.

 

My 28k stock shortblock had some minor wear on the front cam bearing. But we went ahead with the H/C swap anyways. We did however decide to run an electric w/p to help take some load off thet bearing. So far so good.