Converting GenI heads to GenII heads?
LT1 to LS1 is not possible, just to start, the head will not bolt in.
Now pre 87 to post 87, that is a possibility.
Rememebr, the LS1 is the Gen III, not Gen II that is the one piece rear main seal post 87 block.
Now pre 87 to post 87, that is a possibility.
Rememebr, the LS1 is the Gen III, not Gen II that is the one piece rear main seal post 87 block.
No problem...I sometimes forget the stupidest detail only to have a D'oh! moment myself.
Originally posted by jonaddis84
Duh, shouldve known that, but unless hes talking about a different car than in sig i just figured he meant LS1
Duh, shouldve known that, but unless hes talking about a different car than in sig i just figured he meant LS1
???? he said gen I to gen II why assume he meant lt1 to ls1 that would be pretty retarded anyways unless you like to decrease your performance not trying to flame I just dont get how that got started
well I have to say im curious too, maybe try a search as well.
well I have to say im curious too, maybe try a search as well.
You might want to read his second post before calling someone "retarded."
Edit: just saw the winky face, sorry, my bad...
Edit: just saw the winky face, sorry, my bad...
Originally posted by lt4 fd
???? he said gen I to gen II why assume he meant lt1 to ls1 that would be pretty retarded anyways unless you like to decrease your performance not trying to flame I just dont get how that got started
well I have to say im curious too, maybe try a search as well.
???? he said gen I to gen II why assume he meant lt1 to ls1 that would be pretty retarded anyways unless you like to decrease your performance not trying to flame I just dont get how that got started
well I have to say im curious too, maybe try a search as well.
Last edited by HM Murdock; Apr 1, 2003 at 12:50 AM.
Zero Horsepower is a decrease from 275hp...
The heads WILL NOT FIT on ANY Gen I or II block, period.
Well, I guess you could superglue them.

The only common component between LS1's and all other "Chevy 350's" is the 4.00 in bore spacing. The head, whie it does flow more, will not physically fit.
The heads WILL NOT FIT on ANY Gen I or II block, period.
Well, I guess you could superglue them.

The only common component between LS1's and all other "Chevy 350's" is the 4.00 in bore spacing. The head, whie it does flow more, will not physically fit.
Originally posted by lt4 fd
???? he said gen I to gen II why assume he meant lt1 to ls1 that would be pretty retarded anyways unless you like to decrease your performance
???? he said gen I to gen II why assume he meant lt1 to ls1 that would be pretty retarded anyways unless you like to decrease your performance
I know that it wont work and that means no HP, but he is saying that if it were possible that it would decrease the perf.
I found a post that said this place CFM would do it for $250! Thats less then the price diff over LT1 AFRs to standard SBC AFRs!
Heres the post
Heres the post
Chuck (Mr. Horsepower) went into pretty good detail a while back in advanced tech on how to do it. I did a search for you to find the post, but i think it was posted long enough ago to be cleaned off the server b/c i couldn't find it. I remember some things, but not all of them. Here are some of the things that need to be done:
Close off (weld shut) the front and back coolant passages that run to the genI intake.
Close off the egr port in the center of the head.
Open up some of the head's deck-side passages to match the LT1 block(not sure where).
Drill the port in the back of the heads for the lines that run there on LT1s (steam lines?).
Drill some oil drain-back ports (not sure where).
Then they should bolt on to the block and run right. I don't see why it would cost more that just a couple-hundred dollars to do this. But who knows...
Close off (weld shut) the front and back coolant passages that run to the genI intake.
Close off the egr port in the center of the head.
Open up some of the head's deck-side passages to match the LT1 block(not sure where).
Drill the port in the back of the heads for the lines that run there on LT1s (steam lines?).
Drill some oil drain-back ports (not sure where).
Then they should bolt on to the block and run right. I don't see why it would cost more that just a couple-hundred dollars to do this. But who knows...
I'm putting converted Brodix heads on my car. You've covered most of the mods, but you also have to drill intake manifold bolt holes if you want to use the LT1 intake. The drain holes are added at the front and rear of each head. Some heads have a spread port design, so you have to change the header flange (I did). Others have the same hole and bolt pattern as the LT1.
I don't know how much a machine shop would charge for the mods because mine came as a package, but any competent shop that knows LT1's could do them.
I don't know how much a machine shop would charge for the mods because mine came as a package, but any competent shop that knows LT1's could do them.


