Confused about this cam
TTT
I still can't get Lillibush5555 to answer my email about this thing. Never had a problem before and could always find him on AIM until now... I saw him logon to AIM after I had emailed him a link to this thread, but I didn't get a chance to ask him... It hought he would read and respond. I haven't seen him since.
Not saying he's ducking me, just that its odd...
I still can't get Lillibush5555 to answer my email about this thing. Never had a problem before and could always find him on AIM until now... I saw him logon to AIM after I had emailed him a link to this thread, but I didn't get a chance to ask him... It hought he would read and respond. I haven't seen him since.
Not saying he's ducking me, just that its odd...
Nothing wrong with the cam Brad.
You'll just get a bit more of a lope sound than a 112
You can still use 1.6 rockers.
Dunno about the springs.
Make sure they are good upto .550 lift at least and that they have a diameter close to that of your old valve springs that you had with the previous cam.
You will have .544/.555 lift with the 1.6s.
You'll just get a bit more of a lope sound than a 112

You can still use 1.6 rockers.
Dunno about the springs.
Make sure they are good upto .550 lift at least and that they have a diameter close to that of your old valve springs that you had with the previous cam.
You will have .544/.555 lift with the 1.6s.
I'm not familiar with the spring.
You should call or email Comp Cams and make sure you don't have to machine the heads to get the springs to fit.
You could also double check on the cam as well but I'm pretty sure it is an LT1.
You should call or email Comp Cams and make sure you don't have to machine the heads to get the springs to fit.
You could also double check on the cam as well but I'm pretty sure it is an LT1.
Originally posted by Gripenfelter
I'm not familiar with the spring.
You should call or email Comp Cams and make sure you don't have to machine the heads to get the springs to fit.
You could also double check on the cam as well but I'm pretty sure it is an LT1.
I'm not familiar with the spring.
You should call or email Comp Cams and make sure you don't have to machine the heads to get the springs to fit.
You could also double check on the cam as well but I'm pretty sure it is an LT1.
He said something about a grovve in the cam, and it finally came down to compare it to the cam that comes out of my car and see if it looks the same.

When it gets that far I don't wanna be messing around with trying to get another cam ordered while the car takes up shop space...
He said the 08 will work in LT1 as long as it doesn't need the long pi for the opti, then he said something about it having a groove in the front which I had no clue on since I have never done an LT1 specific cam.
hey Mike..Lilbush5555 is my friend, he lives 5 min away from me. The cam u got is a LT1 cam and it will work fine as it was in his car. The car ran fine, i think his best time with that cam was around 12.7 @ 112-113. Car sounded mean as hell. As far as i know, when he got the cam the guy told him it was a XE 230/236 on 110 LSA. So who knows.
Marcin
Marcin
Here is my copy of a XE 230/236 cam card.
XE230/236 Comp Cam Card
I know it won't help you but it does have some items that Mindgame was referring to.
XE230/236 Comp Cam Card
I know it won't help you but it does have some items that Mindgame was referring to.
Comp is notorious for finding "tech" guys who can't answer questions or don't know where/whom to ask for the correct answer. Sad.
Call again and see if you can get someone else to help you.
I'd just hate to see you get that far into it to find that your cam doesn't work.
Then again, I don't know enough about the differences in the late and early cam core. Reading the Doug Anderson article on rebuilding the LT1 it seems that the early cam core has a "small tapered hole and short drive pin". Question is, what is the "small tapered hole" for? Does it pilot the opti like the later cam or is it just clearance??
Someone who's had an early LT1 apart should be able to tell us that. The 08 prefix cam isn't gonna have a very large "pilot" hole in the snout.... just a very small hole like in the picture on the page I gave you a link to. Is it gonna matter??? I can't say but you should get answers to those questions before you start.
-Mindgame
Call again and see if you can get someone else to help you.
I'd just hate to see you get that far into it to find that your cam doesn't work.
Then again, I don't know enough about the differences in the late and early cam core. Reading the Doug Anderson article on rebuilding the LT1 it seems that the early cam core has a "small tapered hole and short drive pin". Question is, what is the "small tapered hole" for? Does it pilot the opti like the later cam or is it just clearance??
Someone who's had an early LT1 apart should be able to tell us that. The 08 prefix cam isn't gonna have a very large "pilot" hole in the snout.... just a very small hole like in the picture on the page I gave you a link to. Is it gonna matter??? I can't say but you should get answers to those questions before you start.
-Mindgame
I'm surprized no one mentioned this...but the only difference between an lt1 cam and a post '87 roller cam is the dowel pin in the end that drives the opti. On an lt1 the dowel pin has to be a little longer. At any rate, '87 later small blocks with roller cams and the lt1 can swap cams, just so long as the dowel pin issue is addressed. I'm running an lt4 hot cam in our '55 Chevy Nomad with a '89 small block. Also have the same cam in my Trans Am. No prob.
Originally posted by bad96firechikin
I'm surprized no one mentioned this...but the only difference between an lt1 cam and a post '87 roller cam is the dowel pin in the end that drives the opti. On an lt1 the dowel pin has to be a little longer. At any rate, '87 later small blocks with roller cams and the lt1 can swap cams, just so long as the dowel pin issue is addressed. I'm running an lt4 hot cam in our '55 Chevy Nomad with a '89 small block. Also have the same cam in my Trans Am. No prob.
I'm surprized no one mentioned this...but the only difference between an lt1 cam and a post '87 roller cam is the dowel pin in the end that drives the opti. On an lt1 the dowel pin has to be a little longer. At any rate, '87 later small blocks with roller cams and the lt1 can swap cams, just so long as the dowel pin issue is addressed. I'm running an lt4 hot cam in our '55 Chevy Nomad with a '89 small block. Also have the same cam in my Trans Am. No prob.
Yes, but are you running an opti on your 89' block?
The article specifically states that the large hole in the nose of the cam is a pilot hole for the opti. If you have a cam without a pilot, then you're gonna have a hard time getting the opti on.
That's the point that needs to be addressed.
-Mindgame
Try this. It's a page from Comp's catalog. It shows pictures at the bottom of what the front of each core looks like. The reason the guy with the older SBC could use the LT1 cam is that the larger hole does nothing in a regular SBC. If you were using a regular SBC cam in an LT1, the distributor would not fit into that hole. I think, though, that this would only apply to the earlier pre-95 Optis that use a splined drive vs the pin drive.
http://www.compcams.com/catalog/042.html
http://www.compcams.com/catalog/042.html
OK...everyone I sold him the cam..IT IS a LT1 cam...I used it for about 6 months in my 96 LT1 TA...I bought it new and had it CUSTOM ground with a 110 LSA instead of the normal 112..thats the ONLY differance...I have been really busy and I just got his email today...SO i havent been avioding him cuz I have nothing to hide. agian it IS for the LT1.
thanks
matt
thanks
matt



