im debating on ram air or cold air i already have the hood for ram, but i am told that cold air makes more power??? does anybody know which makes more?

 

Cold Air is always drawing cold air, while ram air only really works well at higher speeds.
Ram-Air will claim to add a forced-induction addition to the car, which would typically only happen over 100MPH.

Really, the true advantage of a Ram-Air setup is indeed to get COOLER (NOT FASTER) air to the intake.

In my experience with ram-air kits ,if anything, I would NOT recommend something under the air dam ... it has a potential to suck up water if you hit a large puddle or flooded roadway, and I don't think I have to explain the detriment of your motor sucking in water.
It sucks
"the box around the filter restricts a lot of the airflow to the top of the unit. I actually had better results removing their box setup, and just having the fresher air from the routed inlets hit the filter. This could also require some adjustments to your MAF, if using an aftermarket unit (I bought a self adjuster for my Pro-M bullit ... worked nicely)." <--not me so i dont know.. i was talkin to a friend about it.

my recommendation would actually be for a cold-air fender-well kit. They may run as high as $150-200 with all hardware (including the K&N filter), but look and perform very well (as air is able to enter all sides of the filter equally). Again, the main idea is to take cooler air from the fenderwell, vs. hotter air from the engine compartment

 

this car very rarely gets driven in rain. It is not a daily driver... i am mainly looking to find out which of the two makes better power.

 

LS1 lid = OEM factory ram air > CAI > stock.

 

I'm pretty sure a cold air fenderwell kit makes more. If i'm not mistaken people have actually tested it. I have ram air and can tell you its getting a CAI when i get some extra cash

 

http://joelrdevriendt.com/?p=46

 

You can't compare the Camaro SS "ram air" to the Firebird WS6 "ram air". The WS6 setup is a direct shot, other than the baffles in the hood. There is little opportunity for the engine heat to warm things up. The intake points on the WS6 are further forward, where there is typically a layer of air that has not separated from the surface of the hood, as it does with the SS intake further back on the hood.

Comparing to a "cold air" intake, I doubt the air down on the hot asphalt is any colder than the air that enters the WS6's nostrils. Other than the hood baffles, which can be partially removed with no issue of water entering, its a fairly straight path, compared to the two 90-deg turns required for a cold air kit. Bends cause pressure loss. Longer pipes have more pressure loss than shorter pipes.

I'm pretty sure this is fairly effective:

 

thanks that's what i was looking to hear

 

I just did a ls1 lid install on my 97 trans am. I did not do much modding to get it to fit; I have a ws6 hood, it looks great and coast less than the ws6 intake. I paid 140 for the intake with a slp lid. All that is needed to get it to fit with a ws6 hood is cutting of the bottom of the ls1 lower air box. I will post pics of it soon.

 

Fred, where did you get the ***** for the screws on the filter shroud? the smooth intake hose?

-thats very nice.

 

One of these (I think the "Z" style looks better as well as straight shot) is on my wish list http://suncoastramairhoods.com/93-97-camaro-cat.html Have not heard anything good or bad about these?

 

The ***** are factory (and are annoying as hell).

The smooth intake is a Fernco 3" pipe connector, available at Lowes, Home Depot, etc.

 

That's actually an SLP box, which is identical to the factory WS6 box, except for the "Ram Air" and "Pontiac" logos not being cast into the cover, and no pre-molded rubber seal attached to the cover.

Fernco part # 1056-33... about $6 with two nice stainless worm clamps. About 5 years ago, someone used my photo in his ad to sell the part on ebay, for $25 with shipping.

Full view:

http://www.injuneer.com/images/photo.../DCP04255a.jpg

 

I have the short LS1 radiator support with the SLP lid and a custom made duct work under the car to the air dam similar to ones seen on the market. It cost me about $100 total to buy everything and about two hours to build and put together. One day driving home from work, steady speeds from 30-55, I got home opened the hood and I could hold my hand on my intake manifold. Also, I notice at the track when logging, the IAT's are a lot lower at the line and I can watch the IAT's come down to ambient temp by the time I hit about 65 MPH. This would not happen when I had just the ram air box taking in air from the hood.