On shoebox's site it shows a way to check the coil continuity. If this checks out as he says it should does that completely rule out it being a problem with a random/multiple miss?

 

The test is to quickly tell if the windings are intact. It does not mean the coil is perfectly good, but most of the time, it is.

 

Nope. You can have all kinds of problems inside a coil. The secondary wires are pretty small and they can break from thermal expansion and contraction. So you can get 'flyers' where the broken wires touch sometimes or shorted turns which sometimes touch or maybe work when cold but break up when they get warm. At work we run them on a test fixture and blow a heat gun on them or sometimes even boil them while we are running them to see if they will fail. If it is heat related, it might seem strong till you get a little heat in it then it warms up and you get misfiring and the car will seem weak. So continuity testing is kind of a test where if you find a problem, you know you have a problem, but if you don't find a problem, it's inconclusive.

Remember if you test an ignition system, that it is very hard on it if there is no path to ground through the secondary - like grounding the coil or spark plug wire or going through the spark plug. That is because it can develop a lot of voltage trying to find ground and it will look for the weakest insulation point to ecape the insulation and break it down. So that is very hard on a coil and if you ran it too long like that it could ruin something in the secondary - coil or wires. So try not to run the coil open circuit unless you are doing it on purpose and looking at it on a scope or something.

 

Yeah, heat related issues might not show up when statically testing the coil on a bench. Like I said, it is just a quick test to rule out a blatantly open circuit.

 

I understand this completely.

My misfire problem happens when the car is dead cold too though, to me that means it isn't a heat related problem.

 

Does it miss when you are getting on it in 3rd & 4th gears getting worse with higher gear? Or does it break up just revving it up in neutral?

Also, what are your mods and which wires/plugs do you have?

 

It only seems to miss at idle.

I had some stock delco wires/plugs

Now I have TR6s @.035

The miss has been there since I bought the car.

 

Running lean? Like a vacuum leak? Or loose intake? Is EGR working?

Can you scan it?

 

I have a scanner, but it won't do too many things. It's made for an L67/LS1, but it works for LT1s and other OBD2 cars as well.

What would you check for?
I initially thought it was a vacuum leak, cause the idle is crappy, and that's when it seems to miss. But everybody told me I was wrong when I brough it up. I've checked for a leak but can't really find one, I didn't search really well cause everybody told me that wasn't the problem. The EGR is going to be deleted, the codes are off for it, but it never threw one before they were.

Loose intake manifold or ramair intake?

Don't know how lean I am now, but when stock on the dyno it was HORRIBLY lean at first, but I chalked that up to the bad O2 sensor.