swisscheese

If I read this right on page 2496 then yeah.
Yesterday I drove at first a too short route and the code didn't show, but later, when engine is warmed up there it was back again. First I thought probably it has something to do with the 160° thermostat, but it should warm up enough during this summer time.
I cleared the code now and will testdrive later again.

swisscheese

another question: are the gauges from a Firebird working in a Camaro. I have one here just the older one with the analog odometer. just a possibility to check about the ses-light...

Injuneer

According to the 1996 factory service manual, the instrument cluster connector and pinouts are different between the Camaro and the Firebird clusters. See Volume 2 of 2, Part 2 of 2, pages 8A-81-4 and 8A81-6. Those appear to be for the analog cluster used in 1996. The change to digital was made during the 1997 model year, so no idea if anything changed at that point..

swisscheese

Didn't try it so far, also because of no time but in that case it wouldn't make any sense.
I'll take a look at it with a Voltmeter and test pin C8 for SES-light then (probably on weekend)

Injuneer

There's a code for problems with the SES light circuit:

P1661 Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) control circuit

See page 6E-799

swisscheese

Perfect!
I was looking for that but couldn't find...

Too bad that I need a scantool for that.

now either talk to my mechanist or go find a cheap notebook along with a OBD- dongle...

swisscheese

could this be my problem? looks like yellow spliced into purple and the turqois without connection...?

Injuneer

Are you asking if that is related to the SES light? Is that on the steering column - I can't tell where it is located? The wire from the PCM to the SES light is brown/white. It passes through the firewall in pass-thru/grommet P110, which is right behind the PCM. It runs to connector C230, which is right behind the firewall, to the right of the HVAC blower motor. I don't think that wire would end up in the steering column.

That may just be a plastic splice maker.... If you look into the two seemingly empty "holes", are there slotted screws in there that are used to tighten against the spliced wires? Doesn't look "factory", and they wouldn't do anything that sloppy.

swisscheese

lol! sorry! I was working in and out of the car and saw this „piece of art“.
later, when I was already in bed I thought that this is surely not related to the ses-light.

but I took out the gauges one more time and tried to measure the current. on C8 it only showed about 3V where on others it was about 8V.
I hope that in 10 days I know more when the mechanic is going to control this stuff with his scan tool...

swisscheese

short update
EGR-valve changed since the old one didn‘t hold any vacuum at all
SES-light can‘t be triggered with the tech2, so there is anything wrong. it could be that the security light and the ses-light are bridged together since they light up together...

swisscheese

Lucky me I was able to talk to the former owner (one of them) He told me that he had problems with the CKP-sensor and had to go to the vehicle control so he put a tape over the ses-light and grinded away some of the plastic at the gauge-cluster so the security-light lights up the ses too… Probably the led has been damaged with the tape because when I removed the tape, the light still doesn't show up.
Now, probably I will connect a wire to the PCM and put a separate light somewhere to monitor for the ses-light.

Right after the EGR-valve change I had the P0400 again, cleared it. Since then I drove two times and nothing. We'll see… (keeping fingers crossed)

GaryDoug

You should not need an expensive scan tool to read the trouble codes. It's standard OBD2 stuff. Any OBD2 tool should work, some are less than $30 US. This is one I carry in my car all the time because it also displays some engine parameters live: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Autel-MaxiS...QAAOxyY3ZRkMF4

If you only need the trouble codes this works fine:
I should make a qualifier here. If this car was not originally sold in the US it may not have been designated OBD2 compliant. But if your mechanic is using an ordinary OBD2 tool, that should work for you.

swisscheese

@GaryDoug thanks for the feedback! I found this one even in an online shop from an electronic warehouse over here. I'm positive that it will work since the dongle I got once for a newer BMW is able to read the codes as well.
One question, can I keep it connected all the time or will it drain the battery? Does the OBD-port cut out after a few minutes?

swisscheese

So far, I still get P0400, P0410 and P1416 every now and then, just not all at once.
Could it be that the EGR-stuff is kinda clogged from not working for a longer time and therefore not working properly all the time?

swisscheese

While I added the Autotrix-Window-Relaykit I looked up for this wire. Since it is a bit narrow down there, can you tell me which connector this is. I saw three downthere. One is white (but this runs to the backside) , another one is blue and the third one is a black connector.