LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Clutch fork won't engage throwout bearing.. and another ?.. help please

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Old Apr 27, 2003 | 10:59 PM
  #1  
Javier97Z28's Avatar
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From: Jupiter (NPB), Fl
Clutch fork won't engage throwout bearing.. and another ?.. help please

Hey guys, me and dave (a member here) are working on his 6spd right now throwing in a new Spec Carbon clutch. We're reusing his LT4 PP and we threw everything back together and a little later we hear *bang*.. we remove the slave cylinder at the bottom and notice the damn clutch fork popped off the throwout bearing.. I know it's supposed to just slide in and out.. why wouldn't it just pop on and stay on?

When we had the tranny down I gave the clutch fork bolt like 1/4 - 1/2 turn to tighten it up to prevent noise I thought.. well, can the fork be on *toooo* tight? I didn't lock it down or anything, hell, I even used a 1/4" ratchet to do it.

Help us out guys, we're about to pull the tranny out again to see what the hell is going on. I really don't understand.

Also.. on top of that, the slave cylinder rod's plastic head snapped right off when the fork popped out.

Also. we discovered when we pulled the tranny out that the same slave cylinder rod is slightly bent.. is that how it's supposed to be? Or is it supposed to be perfectly straight...

If we can get this car back together, is it driveable w/o that plastic head until a new assembly is purchased? Dave lives 80 miles away from me :/

Last edited by Javier97Z28; Apr 27, 2003 at 11:07 PM.
Old Apr 28, 2003 | 01:01 AM
  #2  
Javier97Z28's Avatar
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Ok.. we put everything back on.. including the now plastic tip free slave rod which is slightly bent. We managed to get the fork on all the way w/o pulling the tranny completely out (just slid it back a bit) but it popped out again (not all the way it seems)...

What could be causing this? UGGGH
Old Apr 28, 2003 | 01:10 AM
  #3  
Shawn 97 Z28 M6's Avatar
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From: DFdubya, Tx.
yea.. You can drive w/out the plastic cap.. it'll make the clutch engage a little lower than you're used to.

As far as getting the fork onto the t.o. bearing.. turn the t.o. bearing a little bit.. you can stick a screwdriver up in there, or even just turn the crank a bit.. The fork oughtta slide right on. Don't force it!

When in all the way - it'll be almost flush w/ the bell housing openning, and the dimple in the fork should be in the middle so the slave has no problem lining up.


Oh yea.. and the bent rod on the slave - don't worry about that.

Old Apr 28, 2003 | 11:50 AM
  #4  
Javier97Z28's Avatar
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Shawn thanks for the help.. everything is back in and we have done the first round of clutch bleeding, seems to be OK for right now.

Question though, how does that bent slave rod work out? is it supposed to be? *confused*.. Guess he needs a new one anyways b/c that plastic head is broken :/
Old Apr 28, 2003 | 11:55 AM
  #5  
Javier97Z28's Avatar
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nevermind.. there's no pedal to the clutch right now.. car won't go in gear with the motor turned on..

we've bled the clutch twice already.. i'm stumped, clutch fork is in place, everything looks ok. When we push the slave rod fluid goes up and down as supposed to.. i just dunno.. we're gonna try bleeding again.
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