I can get the slave cylinder bolted in but as soon as I give the clutch a little push(at about the halfway point to the floor) the pedal just dead stops. When I slowly back the slave cylinder off(ie unbolting it) I can see the clutch fork has slipped and is hitting the bell housing. FYI I used the clutch fork slide method when removing the tranny. Im working on getting a pic or two up of the clutch fork hitting the bellhousing. Anyone have any idea?

 

Make sure those springs on the fork aren't bent or broken. I broke both of them off and its a major PITA to get it back in right. Sorry I can't help more, maybe a better description would let me know more what's going on, as I'm sure plenty of us have been there.

 

Its sliding away from tranny. Not up and down, its sliding to the left(when looking down the tranny towards the front of the car). Does that make sense?

Pic:
http://www.stevenetworks.com/pics/trash/fork.jpg
(im not sure if you can tell from this pic)

 

Pics are up

 

I remember having a similar problem when I installed my Spec clutch. The problem was that the throwout bearing, where the clutch fork slips over it, is square, so it needs to be oriented correctly for the fork to slide all the way onto it. You can see it in this pic.If the square is turned so that it has a point instead of a flat face then the fork seems to go on all the way, but it's really not. Then the other end hits the bellhousing when you press the pedal.

Hope this helps!

 

So basically it sounds like I need to take my tranny back off

How far should the edge of the fork be from the bellhousing(from the spot I pointed to in my picture)?

 

Yeah that kinda sucks. Especially if you already reconnected the driveshaft and torque arm and stuff. Maybe it would be easier to slide the fork out as far as you can, put the tranny in neutral and turn the engine by hand 1/8 turn. You'll know when the fork goes on correctly, it will slide on further than it has been. The little cup end of the fork should be centered in the opening where the slave attaches. Kinda working blind, but better than taking the tranny out again!

 

Where are the springs at on the clutch fork? I never saw any on mine, maybe that is why the clutch doesn't disengage, because there is nothing pushing against it. Would this make the clutch not disengage and ingage fully?

 

Are you using a new clutch fork or the original one. Sometimes the part guy will give you a V-6 one by mistake if it's a new one. Don't ask me how i know. Had it happen to me with my IROC.

 

Orienting the throw-out to fit the clutch fork is incredibly easy and simple. If you can't get the clutch fork on there because the orientation of the throw-out bearing is wrong.. get someone up to the front of the engine and have them turn it over. As the engine turns over.. your throw-out moves with it.. start pressing in.. and eventually it will slide in to place. I've done this three times. Took me less than a minute to get it back on. Much easier than this press and guess method.

 

We installed the engine and tranny put of the car, and it went on fine I think, because it bolted on nice and easy. Just wondering if that was my problem because me clutch is having trouble engaging and disengaging,