Got it in the mail, came home for lunch and tore the package up like a Savage. This thing looks beefy, can probably rev to the moon with it. I now have everything I need to do the cam. Heading up to Houston Friday and me and a buddy are gonna install it that same day . Can't wait to hear the lope.

 

Go ahead and set the chain in the timing cover to get an idea on where it sits, and start grinding all around where the chain is on both sprockets, and where it goes between the sprockets. You will need to do this now, or later. Might as well get it out of the way.

 

Oh yea, forgot about that. Heard someone used white grease right? Won't be a big deal to do. Don't have the car torn apart yet. Also need to clear the waterpump for the electric pump right?

 

Just start grinding away around where the chain will sit on both sprockets. Grease is fine to use to test the fit, but you WILL have to grind, so you might as well start. I had to grind damn near all the way through the cover to get mine to fit. Just stick a freeze plug in the water pump shaft hole if your going electric. Local parts store can match one up to the hole in the cover.

 

My electric pump came with the freeze plug, which side do I install it on? I read a post yesterday where a guy put his on backwards. Do I plug it from the inside or plug it from the outside? Grinding is also no biggy. Whats scaring me is dropping a valve doing the springs and putting the crank back on correctly since it isn't keyed.

 

Don't just go by what I say, but... don't think it matters at all to drop the valve, as long as ur working on the cylinder that is at TDC (top dead center?)... cuz the valve will only fall down a LITTLE before it lands on the face of the piston below. I am a NOOB, but I do research and do all stuff on my car myself.. cuz I wanna learn it all... and I have read into this stuff some, cuz Cam/Valvetrain is gonna be my summer project.

Get a second opinion, I am thinking you don't have to worry any.

 

www.shbox.com has the corect way to swap out valve hardware using the tdc method. very helpful, i used it when i swapped out my srock valve springs.

 

There isnt enough stroke on a stock LT1 to drop a valve. Promise.

Freeze plug that came with your pump is for the pump housing, NOT your timing cover. It goes in either way, I put mine in from the outside. You'll have to buy the timing cover plug seperately.

 

What am I plugging on it?

Oh wait, can't I just leave the shaft on the block?

 

You can if you'd like, but it still going to be driven. Easier to plug up the hole and never have to deal with it again.

 

Will it have any negative effects? Lose horsepower? Make noise? If not, im not worried about it just being there, if I ever want to convert back and realize a electric pump is a pain in the ***. Well, guess that works both ways I can still convert with a freeze plug. Also, what should I set the timing * to? This double roller says it can adjust it by 4*, higher I go, I lose torque down low and gain hp up high? Should I leave it at stock or advance it 1 *?

 

Depending on your cam, it may have advance ground in. For example, my
Crane 227 has 5* advance ground in so it needs to be installed straight up
(i.e., at 0). You should use a degree wheel and check the cam before you
get too wild with the adjustment. See the Comp website on "degreeing a cam".

Degreeing Info