Are the chomemoly pushrods worth the cost over the cold forged?


Aslo does brand make that big of a difference? I mean comp and crane are about 30% more then the "other" brands for the most part.

 

I have always been told and used Chromemoly.

 

but over the cold forged are they that much better? would them being a little bit lighter be the reason they are better?

 

I honestly dont have that answer. I simply do what I was taught, and what has worked for me and friends I trust. Sorry, wish I could give you more.

 

How about... cryoed chromoly

 

whoa, ok now whats going on?

why would I need cryoed chomoly?

 

You wouldn't. Even chromoly is overkill for most setups

 

SO I can save some money and go with cold forged?

or would my stockers work? I'm going to be running stock cam for about 10 months, but will have ported heads and 1.6 rr's

 

i went with Trick Flow Chromoly pieces, i'm pleased for $85 from Summit

 

I'm confused by the question:

"Chrome-moly" is a type of alloy steel, usually 4130 for tubing.

"Cold forged" would be a method of fabricating a metal part. It's not a term we usually hear.

So this is like asking if you want apple pie or something broiled.



FWIW: Carbon steel or alloy steel(chrome-moly) tubing is drawn or formed to size and it's tubular shape "cold" or at room temperature rather than well above 1200 deg. F where "hot forging" as used to make crankshafts and rear end gears takes place.

Strong pushrods are most often made from 4130 tubing that has been heat treated or hardened. Diameter and wall thickness are very important factors in determining pushrod strength. 3/8 diameter .080 wall pushrods are LOTS stiffer than 5/16 diameter, .065 wall thickness pushrods.

The loads the pushrods need to endure depend on rpm, cam lobe aggressiveness, valvetrain mass and of course valve spring pressure. The pushrods should compliment the valvetain parts and engine operating conditions. Too little pushrod stiffness is MUCH worse than too much. It's not the place to save a few bucks if you have a high rpm, aggressively cammed engine.

Ask you cam or engine designer. If you are you own engine designer, ask the company you buy the cam package from.

My $.02.

 

I dont know, (well I know what hte different steel is, and stuff) but I dont know what you mean?

When looking online for the parts there is a list for the LT1, go down it and there is
(in order of cost)

hardened
cold forged
chomemoly
heat treaded chomemoly



Are the push rods what bend when down shifting into to low a gear? and over reaving (proving the springs can still hold the rpm)



I'm going to get chomemoly for sure now, but does brand matter too? the trick flows are like 50 less then the comp or crane ones.

 

the Trick Flows are 5/16", .080" thick wall, 4130 cold formed and heat treated chromemoly tubing

i wouldnt skimp on this area of the valvetrain, if they break they can take out alot of other stuff as well

4130 chromemoly is 4130 chromemoly no matter whos name is on it

 

Doesn't chromoly tend to crack in street applications?

 

same here

 

if thats true then its no good to me, my car see LOTS of street.