I've been wanting to do true duals for a long time. So a short while ago I finally got enough ambition to acomplish my goal. Ground clearance has always been a priority to me, so when I decided to go with duals, I would have to go over the axels. As you will see in the pics, I tucked the system up pretty good as it is only about 1" lower than my subframe connectors. It is made entirely of 2.5 stainless tubing and stainless Spintech Pro Street mufflers. I went with the H pipe instead of an X because it would have been too difficult for me to get around my Spohn torque arm, have a driveshaft loop(which isn't installed yet) and have great ground clearance. I did relocate the fuel and brake lines in the trans hump because I new the pipes were going to be tight to the floor of the car. To do that I simply took them out of the brackets supporting them, turned the bracket upside down and slowly forced the lines to the new location. This took alot of time. I didn't want any issues with heat so I got a roll of insulated reflective tape and wrapped any lines that came close to the exhaust.

I also incorperated the FLP race pipes into the system. So if it gets too annoyingly loud for me I can still swap in the high flow cats from FLP. As far as the sound goes, it is loud. Maybe a little too loud for me but it isn't my daily driver so only time will tell if I get sick of it. My only complaint so far would be that the mufflers are kind of raw sounding especially with the cam lope but it is still a good sound. It really sounds like a race car now and has that exhaust note that you can only get with true duals. There is a considerable amount of interior drone with these mufflers also. Again, it's not my daily driver so who cares. Here are some pics.
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Sweet setup!

 

looks like a very well put together setup.

i would have to blame the resonance/drone on the mufflers. i have a similar setup but with different mufflers and dont experience it. atleast, not compared to my old true duals dumping at the axle!

are you going to put tips on the rear?

 

That sweet! 2 questions. 1. what did that cost you in total? 2. IF you wanted to lower your car would there be any clearance issues due to the way the exhaust is route out back behind the phr area? 3. Ok so I have another one. Did you use the y-pipe as a start and build from there? IF not what did you do the wipe? So that's 4 now. LOL!

 

Total cost, I really don't want to think about it.
FLP's I think I got them for around $1100. Of course that is with coated headers, cats, coated race pipes, coated y-pipe, hardware,
StainlessWorks tubing kit was about $450
Stainless Spintechs were about $250 together.
My labor=free
I probably could have done it for half the price with aluminized pipes and mufflers but I wanted it done right and wanted it to last.

In reality, a long time ago I should have just bought Dynatech long tubes and saved myself some money. I wanted good ground clearance fom day one. Live and learn I guess. I was thinking about lowering the car but there probably would be some issues with the PHR when the suspension travels so I would have to change the driver side pipe a little . It would be an easy fix so I'm not too concerned with it right now. When I started fabricating the system I put the race pipes on and went from there. It was kind of involved and time consuming doing all the layout and fabrication but all in all was't that hard to do. I used the passenger side 90* bend from the Y-pipe and swaped it over to the driver side. I cut the flange off the other half of the Y-pipe and welded the new stainless on to it for the passenger side.

I think it turned out well. I'm not sure if I'm gonna put tips on it or not. I really like the oval tips that the GMMG cat back uses, but thats just more money and I already went overboard on it. I kind of like it with no tips.

 

Very Nice

 

What mufflers are you using that do not drone? I did the same thing with
flowmaster race mufflers and could not stand the drone.

 

Nice work....

 

Awesome work, what all if any relocating etc had to be done over the drivers side of the axle?

 

I relocated the flexable brake hose that goes from the body to the rear end. To do that I simply bent the hard brake line (going to the front) so the hose would be out of the way of the exhaust. I also relocated the charchol canister. I also had to notch the support brace. Any fuel/brake lines were then wrapped with insulated tape. I think a lot of people are detered from doing this little amount of work in order to get the pipe over the axel, but it really isn't that difficult. I just took my time and tried to do it right. If someone wants a shop to do the exhaust work, that person can still do the relocating himself to save the exhaust shop from doing it. I've read on here that some shops won't do over the axel because there is no room. Well, obviously there is room and it has been done many times. This is the way GM should have done it the first time.

 

You have the cleanest car i have ever seen. Do powerwash and wax the underside? Wow. (I have a 1/4 long dirt driveway so i am realy amazed) Awsome set up too.

 

Thanks for the info. Not bad price wise. I've got FLP's too but I want to build a 3" y-pipe for it instead or for now until I return back to the states then go true duals. Keeping your pics for reference. Awesome job man.

 

bullet performance mufflers 2.5 in/out, 16in long

nothing special, they are just a generic brand that my custom exhaust guy uses. straight through design but with good tone, not raspy.

 

You got any banging issues? Very cool set up.

 

DITTO