If you had to suggest one or two chassis mods, what would it be? I'm considering a torque arm, controll arms, sub frame connectors or maybe a beefier sway bar. Just wondering what everyone thought.

 

Impossible to offer a good suggestion for you unless we know how you want to use the car & what's important. Is it daily driver, autox, road racing, drag racing, etc.?

So, what are you looking to improve upon?

 

It is a daily driver. I just want it to be more solid in the curves and less wheel hop.

 

Solid in the curves -> SFC, Front Sway Bar
Less Wheel Hop-> Control Arm Relocation Brackets

I have control arms, but i think they did diddly, all the traction came from the the relocation brackets which are even more important on a lowered car, aka mine.

 

Did you get the relocation brackets before or after you lowered your car. Would it help on a car that has not been lowered. Also, how much did you lower it?

 

I got them after the car was lowered 1.5".

Many people use them on stock ride hieght cars. Depending on brand they come with 2 or 3 sets of holes. I run the lowest one, you would run the middle one. If your getting wheel hop then they should help. Unless your shocks or something else is amiss, then you should correct that first.

 

Subframe connectors should probably be your first mod, torque arm the last.
The purpose of relocation brackets is to put the axle end of the LCA lower than the chassis end so the tires will be forced against the pavement under acceleration. Take a look at your control arms. If the axle end is higher, relocation brackets would be a good idea.

 

Thanks for the info, nice pics by the way. What did you think about your strut tower brace, is it worth it?

 

You are looking for handling? first mod should be shocks and good springs to go with them.

 

To address "I just want it to be more solid in the curves and less wheel hop", you need a STB & SFC as your first mods. The STB will give you more control in the turns, while the SFC, working with the STB will help make your car more solid. Replacing the LCA's with different ones, along with new rear shocks will pretty much eliminate any wheel hop.

If you really care about cornering, you need to be careful which LCA's to get--many of them are designed for drag racing and not the curves. A LCA designed for curves will allow rotation of the LCA (like the stock ones), while a drag racing LCA will not (but helps wheel hop more). I countered my quest for the curves with some good rear shocks (see .sig).

Once you get the above done, you should look into a front sway bar & rear panhard--specific sway bar selection gets a little tricky too. Any aftermarket panhard will do.

People have different opinions about springs--I like the stock ones for Autox + daily driving & my shocks eliminate any bobbing my car had.

Good luck!

 

Do I have to go exotic as double diamond SFC's or will the other ones do. Also, what parts of the car do they tie in. I'm not real sure what they will weld to. Also, do the double diamonds have any drawbacks?

 

Cost, weight, clearance, room for future enhancements like torque arms and true duals.

There is no real way to quantify it, but for arguments sake lets say the BMR boxed SFC will give you 90% of the stiffness benefits of the DDiamonds. Is that extra 10% worth it with the drawback? Only you can decide because you know your ultimate goals in the long run.

Edit* On my suspension page on my site you can see some pics of where they tie in.

 

Thank you very much, that's what I needed to know.

 

What's the main difference between Weld in and bolt on Sub-Frame connectors?? I think that you have to relocate stuff with weld ins, and I'm wondering if it's worth the hassle.

 

im telling you, shocks and springs are your main handling items. weldin are much stronger than boltin, i would never put boltin on my car.