I have them all done except the back two on the drivers side (Cyl #s 5 and 7 i believe) I got the plug removed from # 5 but cant get the air hose threaded in there. Does it help to remove the steering linkage? Or do most people use a fitting and connect the hose on the compressor right to that. (im using a hose from a compression tester) And on the back cylinder, how in the heck do you remove the plug? Its been a couple of years since i did the plugs, wires and headers and i cant remember for the life of me how i did it, my plug socket is to long? Thanks Prorac1

 

I think the easiest way to change the springs on a car is to remove the headers. 6 bolts on the flanges and 2 or 3 bolts on the collector. Much easier to get the fitting into the plug holes.

I took and cut down an old spark plug socket and drilled out the center so the plug would fit all the way through. It looks just like the SLP tool or the "Knuckle Saver" that is sold on Ebay. Just use a ratchet wrench and you're done in no time. Only bad thing, I still have to get under the car to use the tool.

 

Thanks for the reply. Thats kinda what i was thinkin about the socket also, (cause, im a cheapskate, lol) How much did you cut off the socket (or how much was left? I was hoping that i wouldnt have to remove the header (cause i got away without doing so on the pass side) Thanks again, Prorac1

 

I didn't use an air hose, I just brought the piston to TDC for each cylinder as I changed its spring. The valve will only drop about 1/4 inch.

 

To expand on this you can use a *long* piece of rope. Feed the rope into the cylinder and bring the piston towards TDC to hold the valve.

Just make sure you use a good, strong, nylon rope and be sure it's clean

I've used this method ever since I've installed the headers, since there isn't much room in front of the spark plugs anymore.

 

I also did this to make plug swaps easier on a few cylinders. Get a plug socket and modify appropriately. Since I have longtubes I don't have to worry about a Y-pipe in the way. If you still have a Y-pipe running underneath you may need to remove that. The starter is super easy to remove and opens up lots of room

 

The easiest way to make these tools is to drill out the socket, then put an old plug into the socket and cut it so the socket will fit about 1/8th of an inch past the area on the plug that it grabs. I can't think of what you would call that area.

Or just spend $12 bucks on Ebay and order the one that the guy has premade.

 

Thanks for the replys guys. I am on my way to a friends house to get a socket (hes got a bunch) I never thought about the rope thing before, slick idea. And once again thanks everyone. Prorac1

 

Why fight with all of that? Bring the piston to TDC and you are ready to go.

 

if the valve drops about a quater of an inch when you release it, how do you pull it back up to put the locks back on? just grab the tip of the stem and throw one lock on than put the second on? And what is the best way for determining tdc when you cant look into the hole? Thanks for all the input guys, it is much appreciated. Thank you, Prorac1

 

Injuneer is right, (as usual). The valve wont drop so far that you can't put the spring on. FWIW my valves hardly moved with the piston at TDC. I don't know the shape of your valve seals but they add just enough friction to hold the valve in place. I did all of my springs in this manner without an issue.

 

I assume you can still change valve seals when doing it in this manner?

 

yes!

Shoebox has a great tech page. Glad there are people like this on the board to make help pages like his.
http://shbox.com/ci/valve_spring_swap.html

 

UPDATE: I used the tdc method on the # 7 cyl and it worked great. The car is back to gether and runs great. Once again thank you to shoebox (whos website taught me to set my hydraulic lash) and everyone else that helped me through this one. Again, i couldnt do it without ya. Thank you again. Prorac1