How hard is it to change the valve springs while the heads are on the car? In a couple of weeks i will be starting my cam swap and i was wondering if i should take the heads off, or try it with them on?

 

There are a few swap guides on the 'net, including one on my Tech Page.

 

it's a PITA.. make sure to get the air compressor fitting for it, so that your valves won't drop through..... I suggest hitting them a few times with a rubber mallet on top before compressing the springs... that will break the keepers loose....

 

is there enough room in the back to hit them enough to brake them loose though? Thanx shoebox, your page is now bookmarked

 

yes, just be very careful... you deffiantely don't get the full swing, but I was able to get them that way... just remember, you have to keep those valves up, so use the air compressor attachment.

 

If you are putting single coil springs on, you can use a normal screw type spring compressor. If you are putting dual coils on, you need a lever type. Either way, it is possible to do them on the car. With a lever type compressor, you will have to take it apart to screw it onto the rocker stud and assemble it in place. It's not too bad.

If you rotate the engine so that the piston under the valves you are working on is at TDC, you don't need to worry about losing the valve down the cylinder.

 

i already had mine off when i did mine ,but i would definately look into doing it while its on, cuz otherwise you're looking into alot more of a pain and more work :P..


It was fun for me having them off

 

I did mine last weekend, rocker and spring swap, while the heads are on the car. It wasn't that bad, just time consuming, and you have to be delicate. It took me 5.5 hours from start to "starting" the car. And that includes replacing the rocker studs w/ 7/16" studs and installing GMMP guideplates.

 

so with that air adaptor i can just screw it into the spark plug hole, and set the valve lash that way or does the piston have to be at tdc? I never done anything like this before, i just want to make sure i know what im doing lol.

 

you use the air fitting to replace the springs, you do not want to have that in when you set the valve lash.

 

so after all the springs are replaced i can set the valve lash bye putting each cyl. to tdc correct? Also where is the best place to get valve seals, gm dealer?

 

kinda... not really... There are tons of sites out there on the internet that explain exactly how to do it as well as a standard Haynes Manual will explain it. You will put Cyl 1 to TDC (there is a white notch on your crank hub (when that is pointing up, either Cyl 1 or Cyl 6 is at TDC) The easiest way to tell.. pull out Cyl 1 plug and put your finger over the hole, you will feel the air push out when you are at TDC) then follow the haynes manual... I can't remember what valves are set where... but lets say that it says that intake 1,6,4,8 and exhast 2,6,8,4 should be set here, then you start tightening it down while twisting your pushrod... once you start feeling resistance, then stop... tighten 1/4 - 1/2 turn more... and you're done... then move on to the next... do that for whatever the manual says then rotate so that Cyl 6 is TDC (it should be a full turn of your crank) then do the rest as it appears in your directions. That's all there is to it. Now if you have Roller Rockers, I would suggest after doing this, to start your car up with one valve cover off, and do the running lash method.. (this will get you the best valve lash) What you do for this is, back your rocker off til you start hearing it tick, then tighten it til it stops ticking, then turn an additional 1/4 turn... after that, lock the rocker down and move to the next. You might have to stop your engine several times while doing this because oil will splash out and hit your exhast causing it to smoke. If this doesn't make sense, please let me know. Thanks!

 

How's the car runnin' Darrell?

 

Running awesome Doug. I just have to do the WP install sometime soon.