Changing setup, Now LE2 Heads/Cam/Intake Mani HELP ---
My old setup was going to be a cc306/30lb SVO's/ 52mm tb ... so I have all those parts. Well I just scored an LE2 setup....what upgrades should I make??
**The guy is also offering to sell me 36lb accel injectors instead of the 30lb Ford SVO ones I already have. Is it worth the upgrade ... if I am going to do it , I want to do it right
If I keep the 30#'s will they be enough to run the nitrous shot too??!!!
**I am planning on hooking up a 75-125 adj. shot ( I want it to be 125 ) of DRY Zex to this engine (complete setup down to the purge/heater, ect). If the LE2 heads are milled and the C.Ratio goes up should I worry about anything (how does compression ratio affect nitrous use, I know with boost it should be lower) ?? The bottom end is stock .... (130K on the odometer )....will the engine be strong enough to take the n20 or should I only use a 75 shot if ANY? Currently NO smoke from the exhaust ---
----what plugs should I use ( tr6, tr55, Autolite 104's (na)/103's(125 shot), AC Delco r42lt's? ... gapped at .040 (na) or .035(n20)? )
###Other INSTALLED Mods are K&N CAI, Granatelli CAI Maf, Underdrive Pulleys on the alt and crank, edelbrock shorties, and a Flowmaster y pipe -1 cat- 3" full exhaust, 200 amp alternator, TA rear end girdle w/ bearing caps, short throw shifter, Centerforce clutch -flywheel-and pressure plate, drilled and slotted brake rotors w/ semi metallic pads, skip shift eliminator, traction reverse module, 3.73's.
*Other parts I already bought for the setup are 1.6 crane GOLD race roller rockers, 7.2" 5/16 Trickflow pushrods, 52mm ported airfoil, vortech elbow, and 4.10's.
*Parts I still need to buy to complete the swap.
-electric waterpump (csr conversion)
-a cloyes Double Roller set for the type 2 LT1 (should I go for the "hex adjust"?) Do I delete the crank position sensor due to the lumpy cam causing false misfire readings....with my tune or actually take the piece off the car?!
-gaskets ( any certain kind better than another?/thickness ) I heard running the IMPALA lt1 headgasket gets you a higher C.R.?!
-hypertech 160 degree thermostat (or should I go 180? What is the difference?! )
-Roller Lifters
**Do I need a better fuel pump? 205lph or 255lph? I heard the 205 is fine up to 500 n/a horses. Which would be best for my setup?! ---
**Should I upgrade the opti cap to an MSD or use better plug wires? What is a good plug to use for nitrous applications??? ---
Do you recommend I go to a dyno and get a tune, OR just go to Madz28 for a tune?! --- (what are the price differences?)
**The ignition is stock also, should I upgrade to the mallory digital display 685 box with the window and timing retard??
HERE IS MY Current Suspension setup
-BMR adj. torque arm
*Performance Poly Tubed lower control arms
*Aluminum polished adj. panhard rod
*SLP subframe connectors w/ black powdercoating
*Bilstein revalved SLP shocks front and rear
*Ground Control Coil Overs
*Red Powdercoated front shock tower engine brace.
*315 17's in the rear on zr1 rims
*lca relocation brackets
Do you recommend poly engine/tranny mounts, driveshaft loops, rear/front sway bars, ls1 driveshaft?! ---
I also bought a 3 gauge pillar pod, what gauges do you guys recommend I stick in it? (name a good wideband/ AF ratio setup)---
I heard running an AF ratio of 12.6-12.8 helps too??? ---
Thats it for now, thanks on the opinions guys
---
**The guy is also offering to sell me 36lb accel injectors instead of the 30lb Ford SVO ones I already have. Is it worth the upgrade ... if I am going to do it , I want to do it right
If I keep the 30#'s will they be enough to run the nitrous shot too??!!! **I am planning on hooking up a 75-125 adj. shot ( I want it to be 125 ) of DRY Zex to this engine (complete setup down to the purge/heater, ect). If the LE2 heads are milled and the C.Ratio goes up should I worry about anything (how does compression ratio affect nitrous use, I know with boost it should be lower) ?? The bottom end is stock .... (130K on the odometer )....will the engine be strong enough to take the n20 or should I only use a 75 shot if ANY? Currently NO smoke from the exhaust ---
----what plugs should I use ( tr6, tr55, Autolite 104's (na)/103's(125 shot), AC Delco r42lt's? ... gapped at .040 (na) or .035(n20)? )
###Other INSTALLED Mods are K&N CAI, Granatelli CAI Maf, Underdrive Pulleys on the alt and crank, edelbrock shorties, and a Flowmaster y pipe -1 cat- 3" full exhaust, 200 amp alternator, TA rear end girdle w/ bearing caps, short throw shifter, Centerforce clutch -flywheel-and pressure plate, drilled and slotted brake rotors w/ semi metallic pads, skip shift eliminator, traction reverse module, 3.73's.
*Other parts I already bought for the setup are 1.6 crane GOLD race roller rockers, 7.2" 5/16 Trickflow pushrods, 52mm ported airfoil, vortech elbow, and 4.10's.
*Parts I still need to buy to complete the swap.
-electric waterpump (csr conversion)
-a cloyes Double Roller set for the type 2 LT1 (should I go for the "hex adjust"?) Do I delete the crank position sensor due to the lumpy cam causing false misfire readings....with my tune or actually take the piece off the car?!
-gaskets ( any certain kind better than another?/thickness ) I heard running the IMPALA lt1 headgasket gets you a higher C.R.?!
-hypertech 160 degree thermostat (or should I go 180? What is the difference?! )
-Roller Lifters
**Do I need a better fuel pump? 205lph or 255lph? I heard the 205 is fine up to 500 n/a horses. Which would be best for my setup?! ---
**Should I upgrade the opti cap to an MSD or use better plug wires? What is a good plug to use for nitrous applications??? ---
Do you recommend I go to a dyno and get a tune, OR just go to Madz28 for a tune?! --- (what are the price differences?)
**The ignition is stock also, should I upgrade to the mallory digital display 685 box with the window and timing retard??
HERE IS MY Current Suspension setup
-BMR adj. torque arm
*Performance Poly Tubed lower control arms
*Aluminum polished adj. panhard rod
*SLP subframe connectors w/ black powdercoating
*Bilstein revalved SLP shocks front and rear
*Ground Control Coil Overs
*Red Powdercoated front shock tower engine brace.
*315 17's in the rear on zr1 rims
*lca relocation brackets
Do you recommend poly engine/tranny mounts, driveshaft loops, rear/front sway bars, ls1 driveshaft?! ---
I also bought a 3 gauge pillar pod, what gauges do you guys recommend I stick in it? (name a good wideband/ AF ratio setup)---
I heard running an AF ratio of 12.6-12.8 helps too??? ---
Thats it for now, thanks on the opinions guys
---
Last edited by AlwaysCode390; Sep 17, 2006 at 03:16 PM.
Re: Changing setup, Now LE2 Heads/Cam/Intake Mani HELP ---
Originally Posted by alwayscode
My old setup was going to be a cc306/30lb SVO's/ 52mm tb ... so I have all those parts. Well I just scored an LE2 setup....what upgrades should I make??
**The intake I got is ported for a 58mm tb, but I have a new 52mm tb sitting beside me.....will the 52mm one run on the ported intake mani?! If I can afford it, should I just upgrade to the 58mm one and sell the 52mm one?! I plan on making over 400rwhp (can I still run the TB Bypass on a 58mm for more performance? What are the odds it will freeze up in the winter?).
**The guy is also offering to sell me 36lb accel injectors instead of the 30lb Ford SVO ones I already have. Is it worth the upgrade ... if I am going to do it , I want to do it right
!!!
**I am planning on hooking up a 75-125 adj. shot ( I want it to be 125 ) of DRY Zex to this engine (complete setup down to the purge/heater, ect). If the LE2 heads are milled and the C.Ratio goes up should I worry about anything?? The bottom end is stock .... SUPPOSEDLY a 355 overbore 20K miles ago (130K on the odometer )....will the engine be strong enough to take the n20 or should I only use a 75 shot if ANY. Should I be concerned going from a 112 LSA to a 107 LSA shooting the n20? I know n20 cams should be higher LSA. Let me know.
###Other INSTALLED Mods are K&N CAI, Granatelli CAI Maf, Underdrive Pulleys on the alt and crank, edelbrock shorties, and a Flowmaster y pipe -1 cat- 3" full exhaust, 200 amp alternator, TA rear end girdle w/ bearing caps, short throw shifter, Centerforce clutch -flywheel-and pressure plate, drilled and slotted brake rotors w/ semi metallic pads, skip shift eliminator, traction reverse module, 3.73's.
*Other parts I already bought for the setup are 1.6 crane GOLD race roller rockers, 7.2" 5/16 Trickflow pushrods, 52mm ported airfoil, and 4.10's.
*Parts I still need to buy to complete the swap.
-Should I go with an electric waterpump, please name a good one ( whats the CSR conversion? )
-a cloyes Double Roller set for the type 2 LT1 (should I go for the "hex adjust"?)
-gaskets ( any certain kind better than another? )
-hypertech 160 degree thermostat (or should I go 180? What is the difference?! )
-Roller Lifters (what brand is best?) , if my stock ones have 20K on them, would they be fine to reuse?
SHOULD I BUY NEW Roller LIFTERS ( please recommend a brand )
Do I need to delete the Crank Position Sensor?
Do you recommend I go to a dyno and get a tune, OR just go to Madz28 for a tune?! --- (what are the price differences?)
**The nitrous kit came with a fuel management setup .... should I upgrade the fuel system ( larger pump, ect? ) , if so what do I need ?
**The ignition is stock also, should I upgrade to the mallory digital display 685 box with the window and timing retard??
HERE IS MY Current Suspension setup
-BMR adj. torque arm
*Performance Poly Tubed lower control arms
*Aluminum polished adj. panhard rod
*SLP subframe connectors w/ black powdercoating
*Bilstein revalved SLP shocks front and rear
*Ground Control Coil Overs
*Red Powdercoated front shock tower engine brace.
*315 17's in the rear on zr1 rims
*lca relocation brackets
Do you recommend poly engine/tranny mounts, driveshaft loops, rear/front sway bars, ls1 driveshaft?! ---
I also bought a 3 gauge pillar pod, what gauges do you guys recommend I stick in it? ---
Atleast the parts I am replacing will be new and relatively easy to sell. Thats it for now, thanks on the opinions guys
---
**The intake I got is ported for a 58mm tb, but I have a new 52mm tb sitting beside me.....will the 52mm one run on the ported intake mani?! If I can afford it, should I just upgrade to the 58mm one and sell the 52mm one?! I plan on making over 400rwhp (can I still run the TB Bypass on a 58mm for more performance? What are the odds it will freeze up in the winter?).
**The guy is also offering to sell me 36lb accel injectors instead of the 30lb Ford SVO ones I already have. Is it worth the upgrade ... if I am going to do it , I want to do it right
!!! **I am planning on hooking up a 75-125 adj. shot ( I want it to be 125 ) of DRY Zex to this engine (complete setup down to the purge/heater, ect). If the LE2 heads are milled and the C.Ratio goes up should I worry about anything?? The bottom end is stock .... SUPPOSEDLY a 355 overbore 20K miles ago (130K on the odometer )....will the engine be strong enough to take the n20 or should I only use a 75 shot if ANY. Should I be concerned going from a 112 LSA to a 107 LSA shooting the n20? I know n20 cams should be higher LSA. Let me know.
###Other INSTALLED Mods are K&N CAI, Granatelli CAI Maf, Underdrive Pulleys on the alt and crank, edelbrock shorties, and a Flowmaster y pipe -1 cat- 3" full exhaust, 200 amp alternator, TA rear end girdle w/ bearing caps, short throw shifter, Centerforce clutch -flywheel-and pressure plate, drilled and slotted brake rotors w/ semi metallic pads, skip shift eliminator, traction reverse module, 3.73's.
*Other parts I already bought for the setup are 1.6 crane GOLD race roller rockers, 7.2" 5/16 Trickflow pushrods, 52mm ported airfoil, and 4.10's.
*Parts I still need to buy to complete the swap.
-Should I go with an electric waterpump, please name a good one ( whats the CSR conversion? )
-a cloyes Double Roller set for the type 2 LT1 (should I go for the "hex adjust"?)
-gaskets ( any certain kind better than another? )
-hypertech 160 degree thermostat (or should I go 180? What is the difference?! )
-Roller Lifters (what brand is best?) , if my stock ones have 20K on them, would they be fine to reuse?
SHOULD I BUY NEW Roller LIFTERS ( please recommend a brand )
Do I need to delete the Crank Position Sensor?
Do you recommend I go to a dyno and get a tune, OR just go to Madz28 for a tune?! --- (what are the price differences?)
**The nitrous kit came with a fuel management setup .... should I upgrade the fuel system ( larger pump, ect? ) , if so what do I need ?
**The ignition is stock also, should I upgrade to the mallory digital display 685 box with the window and timing retard??
HERE IS MY Current Suspension setup
-BMR adj. torque arm
*Performance Poly Tubed lower control arms
*Aluminum polished adj. panhard rod
*SLP subframe connectors w/ black powdercoating
*Bilstein revalved SLP shocks front and rear
*Ground Control Coil Overs
*Red Powdercoated front shock tower engine brace.
*315 17's in the rear on zr1 rims
*lca relocation brackets
Do you recommend poly engine/tranny mounts, driveshaft loops, rear/front sway bars, ls1 driveshaft?! ---
I also bought a 3 gauge pillar pod, what gauges do you guys recommend I stick in it? ---
Atleast the parts I am replacing will be new and relatively easy to sell. Thats it for now, thanks on the opinions guys
---You plan on making 400rwhp and then adding a 125 shot ontop? If so then i would go with the 36s. The 30s will be ok aslong as they are not at max duty cycle at wot. A maxed out injector plus nitrous will ruin your day since you are using a dry shot.
As for the nitrous reliability, i cant say. What was rebuilt on the engine? who rebuilt it? What machine work was done?.......
You have alot of other questions that can be answered with the search bar.
Good luck man
Re: Changing setup, Now LE2 Heads/Cam/Intake Mani HELP ---
I would go with the 30# matched SVO injectors over the 36# Accels. Accels do not have a steller reputation. If need be just crank up the pressure on the 30 pounders. With the more efficient motor that you are building your BSFC should be lower.
Re: Changing setup, Now LE2 Heads/Cam/Intake Mani HELP ---
I have heard bad things about the Accel's too, but want to make sure the 30# SVO's are going to keep up with the nitrous. What is BSFC? I guess I should get a Fuel Pressure Regulator to crank up the pressure , or is that done on my TUNE? I would rather keep the SVO's and pocket the extra $100 the Accels are going to cost me to "upgrade to"
...IF I was 100% sure the 30lbers were up for the job of a 383 stroker, le2 cam/intake/headed, 58mm tb, 125hp shot of dry n20, lol ---
...IF I was 100% sure the 30lbers were up for the job of a 383 stroker, le2 cam/intake/headed, 58mm tb, 125hp shot of dry n20, lol ---
Last edited by AlwaysCode390; Sep 16, 2006 at 02:56 PM.
Re: Changing setup, Now LE2 Heads/Cam/Intake Mani HELP ---
The 30# SVO's are at 89% duty cycle with a LE2 setup I'm running. Definately need to go bigger for dry N2O. 30# SVO's are 31.68 at stock LT1 pressure. I'm not familiar with N2O but 42# seem common from what I've read.
Re: Changing setup, Now LE2 Heads/Cam/Intake Mani HELP ---
Originally Posted by alwayscode
Do you recommend I go to a dyno and get a tune, OR just go to Madz28 for a tune?! --- (what are the price differences?)
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=472949
Re: Changing setup, Now LE2 Heads/Cam/Intake Mani HELP ---
Originally Posted by tapout911
One thing I noticed is the 7.2 pushrods you have may be to long. Most LE2 setups end up using a 7.1 or 7.15 length
Thanks ALOT, I just learned alot, lol. Its because of the decking/gaskets used. I will get a checker tool, and ask LLOYD myself....thanks for the heads up.... I appreciate it
---
Last edited by AlwaysCode390; Sep 17, 2006 at 02:19 PM.
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