I'm going to bury my old thread and start a fresh topic. Ok, the arguement is convincing to change the springs with the 1.6 Roller Rocker upgrade. I will buy a set that will work with the CC503 that I want this summer. That brings a few questions...

1 - I read on www.streetillusionsracing.com about changing the springs. They just put the piston to TDC and changed out the spring. I've got tight headers on here and I will not be able to inject air into that piston. Can I put the piston at TDC and still change out the valve?

2 - Will I need to shim the head spring seat beyond the shims supplied in the spring kit? I will not have any way to test spring pressure. Will the out of the box springs work ok?

3 - What is the recommend spring installer tool?

 

1. Yes you can change all the springs just by following the firing order by rotating the crank 90* after you reach TDC #1. This way if the valves drop they will hit the piston and not go all the way down in to the cylinder.

2. It’s always a good idea to check the installed height of the springs. The open and closed pressures depend on what height you set them at.

3. Snap on makes a great tool or you could even go to sears and get a cheap craftsman OHV spring compressor. (I have 2 if you want to buy one from me)


Also I would recommend going with the crane 10308-spring kit. It comes with shims, retainers and locks. They are good for up to a .600 lift and 7000-RPM HTH

Joe

 

1- Great idea! If the valve does fall, can the spring and retainer still be put on the valve or do you need a magnet or sometype of tool to hold the valve in place while the spring is being installed.

2 - How do you check the installed height of the springs? Sounds simple. What would be the spec for a stock cam? I'm doing the head port and cam swap over the summer.

3 - How much is the Snap-On tool?

Thanks

 

What do I do if the valve slides down? Even if the piston is at the top dead center... can I still get the spring and retainer back on the valve or do I have to "fish" the valve out of the head.

 

1. yes, you can change it with the piston at top dead center. i just did this last week. the valve will drop maybe .5" max. get a small telescoping magnet, it will come in VERY handy for the retainers.

2. couldnt tell ya.

3. i had lots of trouble with the KD spring compressor with a crank top. it didnt have big enough teeth to grab both springs and the inside one wouldnt compress. get the moroso one from summit. its a lever style and will work on all springs. by far the easiest to use.

 

I just did mine, used the compressed air method, only way to do it. I had my manifolds off so it made it easier. If u use the TDC method u will have a hell of a time holding the valves up to get the keepers on. Why fight all that when the air method is super simple, no worry bout valves falling down. On a side note, I used cmotorsports double springs. My spring compressor wouldnt catch the inside spring. Listen to this ghetto fix. I used a few heavy duty wire ties to hold the inner spring to the outer one and once I got em on just cut em off. Worked perfect. Heads where on the car by the way. U can use the "lever" type compressor on all but the back 2 cyl. then u got to use the screw type.

 

Great input! Thanks!! I've heard about problems with the Sears compressors... that Snap On is the best. Anybody have any experience with Snap-On?