I am about to change the breaks on my z, to save some money doing it myself....question is I looked at installuniversity at this article....

http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...ds_mwarren.htm

it is for a ls1, is it similar or what is different with the lt1 z28

 

its the same method on every car. take bolt off, take pads out of caliper. push piston back in caliper(use c clamp with old pad, make sure brake fluid resevior cap is off) put in new pads, put badk together

 

There's nothing to it...take old pads off, put new ones in. Be sure to put some anti-squeal paste on the back of the pads before installation.

 

That is for an LS1 and I believe that the brake system is different. The things you will need is an allan wrench, I don’t know what size, a c-clamp and a 8mm wrench to for the bleeder screw. Use the allan wrench to take out the two bolts on the back of the caliper. There is one on top and one the bottom. Pull the caliper off and take the old brakes out. Use the c-clamp to push the piston all the way till it is flush with the caliper. Be careful and go slowly, also take the cap off the brake booster also with a towel underneath it. Put your new brakes in and put the caliper back on the disk. Screw the caliper back on and repeat the other side. After you are done don’t forget to bleed the brakes.

 

ok, going to it now, got jacks and all, to lift hte front of the car, where is the safest place to put a jack to lift, then jackstands?

 

thanks guys for the advice, had to run ou to home depot to buy a 3/8th hex allen wrench, and thanks fo the advice to get the socket one, made alot easier, actually, wrong thread, lol.

finished one side, due tolight contraints, but will take alot less to do the otherside. had a 5inch clamp which made it easy to pu the piston back in , uncapped, however i dont think brake fluid came out the rag was still dry i believe.

so how all to bleed the system?

 

btw, feels great doing ownjob, lol. when i went under to jack the car, I saw that some shop jacked on the plastic, bastards, siff sniff.

 

If you have a firm pedal after you get through with your pad swap, there really won't be a need to bleed the system.

 

when I change the other pad tomorrow will see, didnt feel too mushy dont think. will see.

 

Unless there is a breach in the system that allowed air in the brake lines, there is no need to bleed the brakes. However, before you put your car in gear and try to take off; you will need to pump your brake pedal several times to get the piston to adjust to new brakes against the rotors.

The rear brakes do not use the same tools to do the job and you do not need to take off the caliper to do them. You just need to take out the top bolt and pivot the caliper down to change the pads.

 

yep, pumped the breaks.

and i did a search, here and found that the rear's use a metric socket instead of a SAE allen wrench (3/8th) on the front. ah, if it was all metric there would be no need for 2 different sets of tools, lol.


and I am not going to bleed the breaks, no need to,