Change hub to run cloyes dbl roller on 97 LT1??

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Apr 2, 2007 | 11:53 AM

#16

G. McDonald

Thread Starter

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Joined: Sep 2002

Posts: 112

Why Cloyes Dbl and EWP?

"BTW... why are you going with a double roller?"

Pretty much the same reasons as everyone else, more power, more dependable/accurate valve train, fewer spots to leak (I've had a belly-full of leaks on this barge), and the kicker was some of the discussions I have seen lately about incompatible cam gear/WP drive gear problems - particularly when switching to the LT4 ED timing chain setup. The other biggie was the ability to get the Cloyes double roller and the electric water pump plus all the aforementioned benefits for about the same price as the highway robbery GM extreme duty setup (depending on where you buy).

Apr 2, 2007 | 02:55 PM

#17

shoebox

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Joined: Dec 1969

Posts: 27,727

From: Little Rock, AR

Quote:

Originally Posted by G. McDonald

So if I am able to use the reluctor wheel as a spacer to locate my exixting 97 hub correctly on the crank snout, does that mean I can keep a funcioning crank position sensor or do I still have to have that feature programmed out by the folks at PCMforless? I though I had to get rid of the CPS as soon as I switched to the Cloyes double roller chain setup?

If I am able to keep the reluctor wheel and use it as a spacer, that would seem to mean that the crank sprocket for the double roller is the same thickness as the crank sprocket from the original setup. Am I understanding correctly?

Thanks for all the responses.

If you measure the thickness of the items you will know what to do.

Apr 2, 2007 | 03:05 PM

#18

Temple

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Joined: Feb 2000

Posts: 161

From: Victoria, Tx

I went with a keyed earlier model crankshaft hub from thunderracing to make up the difference deleting the cps/reluctor.

http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...vid=4&pcid=239

Apr 2, 2007 | 06:30 PM

#19

BeaversTA

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Joined: Mar 2001

Posts: 258

From: FT WORTH,TX

on my 96 I used the stock one with no problem.

Apr 2, 2007 | 08:27 PM

#20

GASH1313

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Joined: Feb 2007

Posts: 37

As I posted early on in the thread just grind down your relutor ring as a spacer and be done with it. If you have not seen the ring before it's kind of steped just grind it down to the 2nd to last circle and your good. I should have taken pics when I did mine.

Apr 2, 2007 | 10:03 PM

#21

quicksilver97ta

Registered User

Joined: Aug 2002

Posts: 662

From: dallas, tx, usa

Quote:

Originally Posted by shoebox

Measure the difference between the combination of your old crank gear and reluctor vs. the Cloyes gear. Shim between the gear and the hub as necessary to make up the difference, so you can use your existing hub.

About .060 shim, it's a little thinner than the reluctor.

Apr 3, 2007 | 04:14 AM

#22

SS RRR

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Joined: Oct 1998

Posts: 3,144

From: Jackstandican

Quote:

Originally Posted by G. McDonald

have seen lately about incompatible cam gear/WP drive gear problems.

I've seen those threads, however from what I read the question originated whether or not the gear drive should be changed out for the new one shipped w/ the chain and gears. Someone posted up how the meshing is different between the two and then everyone started freaking out.

I've had the HD on my stock pump drive gear now for 3 years w/out any problems. Dunno... just seems like more work for no benefit IMO.
The wives tales can run rampant on this board at times...

Apr 3, 2007 | 04:19 AM

#23

SS RRR

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Joined: Oct 1998

Posts: 3,144

From: Jackstandican

Quote:

Originally Posted by 95Z28ConvtM6

I have this one in mine and it was about $90 from Summit. It works with both optical trigger and standard.

According to the description it is a single roller chain. I believe the topic has to do with using a double roller. Cloyes makes a double roller that will work w/ the reluctor however it's cash money to buy.

Last edited by SS RRR; Apr 3, 2007 at 04:21 AM.

Apr 3, 2007 | 07:45 AM

#24

Javier97Z28

Moderator

Joined: Dec 1999

Posts: 3,853

From: Jupiter (NPB), Fl

Quote:

Originally Posted by SS RRR

I've had the HD on my stock pump drive gear now for 3 years w/out any problems. Dunno... just seems like more work for no benefit IMO.
The wives tales can run rampant on this board at times...

Werd. I ran the LT4 ED on my cam only motor for 3 years / 20k miles and ALL the gear meshes were 100% intact. They were so good I sold the LT4 ED set after I used it since it looked brand new. I also reused the stock WP gear.