LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Cc306 Kit

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Old Apr 28, 2003 | 04:16 PM
  #16  
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From: Shreveport LA
Originally posted by Wildwill532
i dont have a tq wrench just basic tools
Just go buy a torque wrench, i bought mine for 20.00 dollars at sears.

i plan on installing my own cam in about a month, im even home porting my own heads. im only 16, and i plan to buy a small block chevy to help me out. the basic install is just like any 350, and there are plenty of books on that. if you have any problems call up the maker of your cam and they will help you, or post it on this board, their are many who have changed cams themselves and are willing to help you.

I say, do it yourself, you will feel proud of your work and have 800 more dollars to spend on some other mods.
Old Apr 28, 2003 | 08:28 PM
  #17  
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is this all i need

install Crane Dual Coil Springs, Comp R Lifters, Pro Magnum 1.6 RRs,

and no luck finding the 300.00 installers lol
Old Apr 28, 2003 | 08:31 PM
  #18  
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Originally posted by Wildwill532
is this all i need

install Crane Dual Coil Springs, Comp R Lifters, Pro Magnum 1.6 RRs,

and no luck finding the 300.00 installers lol
hardened or chromoly pushrods... the cam itself... tuning for sure... and if you are auto you will need a stall..
Old Apr 28, 2003 | 09:12 PM
  #19  
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i need a stall just to drive it for a while? i mean only till i can save enough to buy another one
Old Apr 28, 2003 | 09:29 PM
  #20  
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Originally posted by Wildwill532
i need a stall just to drive it for a while? i mean only till i can save enough to buy another one
Yeah you will want a stall with that cam or else it will be a dog in low rpms and surge really bad. You can do it, but it wont be fun driving around like that, will be very annoying I would imagine. Someone with an auto car may be able to elaborate more, Ive got an M6, but Ive heard A4s need stall before cam, especially a big one.
Old Apr 28, 2003 | 09:36 PM
  #21  
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Originally posted by Wildwill532
i need a stall just to drive it for a while? i mean only till i can save enough to buy another one
Go to Yahoo Yellow Pages and select Conway, SC as your location and look for Altantic Coast Convertors. That guy can build you a 2500 stall (maybe higher) from a stock GM for less than $200 for trade on yours. He built my friend's and it really get it done...a quality build Call him up, he's really cool, and this will save you...what? $500+?
Old Apr 28, 2003 | 10:07 PM
  #22  
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is it really that easy to install a new cam i mean i dont know what seals and gaskets to get im worried about getting stranded halfway or something or not being able to install the cam and dial it in or set the rocker arms i dont want to start something ic ouldnt finish

and i guess now i got to by a tq converter a few days later
Old Apr 28, 2003 | 10:35 PM
  #23  
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Going rate here in San Antonio.

$300 cam install
$150 Torque Converter install
$150 Rear-end gear install
$500 cam and heads


And the list goes on and on.... If I were you, I would look into your states forum here on the board and do a post for Illinios and see who out there does side work. You will be suprised the people that are GM certified mechanics that do this kind of stuff on the week-ends for over 1/2 of what a shop would charge. Check them out with other folks on the board to see what kind of job they have done on others cars.

Good luck. Side note. XXSaintsXX is one of the guys here on the board that has gone with a CC306 with stock heads. If I may suggest something here. First if you have an Auto you will need a stall larger than the stock one. You will also need some type of programming(tuning). You can get by without doing these with a hot cam, but with a CC306 you will not be so lucky. Look into the XE grinds. They are not as hard on your valvetrain and out perform those other cams. Look at the 218/224 or 224/230 on a 112 LSA. Your lift numbers using 1.6RR's will be anywhere from .525-.544 depending on which cam you would choose.

A nice converter will drop more time off your Et than a cam will. My TCI 10" Streetfighter converter which I got for $200 installed stalls at 3000 RPM using a 1.75 STR. I dropped .45-.53 for 6 straight runs when it was first installed.

I will post this and then go back and read your sig and try to guide you in the right direction.
Old Apr 28, 2003 | 10:45 PM
  #24  
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Im wanting the cc306 but what would be the best cam then to get what do you recomend for a great setup i dont know anything about valve lift and all that i want alot of power and i will continue to add power adders and all that but i also want a great muscle car lumpy thumping idle! I know i want the 1.6 rocker arms and the crane valve springs i dont know about anything else, the TQ converter and computer programing will come with the next paycheck 2 weeks after i buy this stuff and install it
Old Apr 28, 2003 | 10:48 PM
  #25  
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List me everything your car has for mods. Also the year, tranny and rear-end gears. I ned all mods though. Alos what is your goal in the quarter mile?
Old Apr 28, 2003 | 10:53 PM
  #26  
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Originally posted by Wildwill532
TQ converter and computer programing will come with the next paycheck 2 weeks after i buy this stuff and install it
Plan on waiting that 2 weeks to drive it then. Even if you are able to drive it, its gonna drive you NUTS w/cam surge at idle and just run like **** overall. Wait and get the TC and tune w/the rest. You'll thank me if you do and say you wish you would have if you don't.
Old Apr 28, 2003 | 10:57 PM
  #27  
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Originally posted by ucrazymonkey

Good luck. Side note. XXSaintsXX is one of the guys here on the board that has gone with a CC306 with stock heads.
yup, me and Marcin both have the CC306 on stock heads I couldnt remember his name on here I rode in his car and saw how it performed and I knew it would be right for me
Old Apr 28, 2003 | 10:59 PM
  #28  
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Now the only real mod i have is i just installed hooker lt's and 2 purple hornies im going to buy a slp cai soon, 97 z28 71K miles automatic 3.23 gears and as for the 1/4 i never go im 17 and just want so look bad as hell and show the corvettes we can kick *** too!
Old Apr 28, 2003 | 11:19 PM
  #29  
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Remember this is my opinion, I do not speak for everyone here on the board.
Im going to assume that you would be running about a 13.5-13.8 right now in the quarter mile.
First go with a Moroso CAI, they look alot cleaner then the SLP and the price is nice at $179.
Second get rid of the 3.23 gears and step up to some 3.73 gears. You can find them brand new on ebay from a guy that sells Motive gears. They go for $129 new.
Next get your self a 2800-3000 Torque converter. TCI makes one that sells for $429 thru summit. And get yourself some Nitto 555R's. 245/50/16 tires if that is what size you have. $290 for 2 thru Discount tire.
With what I have mentioned, you should be right around a 13.2 @ 102 MPH. While spending under $1000.

There is no benifit to get a cam if you dont have what it takes to support it. And from what I have read of your mods you do not.

I would suggest 2 different cams for you. An XE 218/224 on a 112 LSA. .528 .535 using 1.6 RR's. Also the 224/230 on a 112 LSA. .535 .544 using the 112 LSA. Both cams will give you a nice choppy lope being on a 112 LSA. Both will run you right around $235. You cab get some 1.6RR's from summit for $189 and the Crane Spring Retainer kit PN#10308-1 for $145. You will need these if your going to run a cam like these. You may also go the hot cam route. Can get a whole package with Springs,RR's and cam for $475. It is a 218/228 on a 112LSA .525 .525 on 1.6RR's.

Brian at PCM for Less can get you a great tune. I went with LT1 Edit and do the programming myself. It cost me $550 to do this though.
You could also go with the CC305 cam, but I would stick to the XE grinds.

Just remember. Just cuz you throw a 1150 Holly Dominator Carb on a stock 350 chevy engine dont mean your going to be blazing fast. Without the right parts in the right places to back it up you will run worse than if you would have left the old quadra junk on. (maybe your too young to remember the old carbs ).

Anywho. Plan what you are going to do. Do it righ the first time so you will not have to do it 3 times over. Good luck and if you need any other help or part numbers just PM me.
Old Apr 30, 2003 | 12:43 AM
  #30  
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Here is what I paid to do a CC306 swap in my garage by myself, with no expirence ever...

*Note numbers are rounded*

Cam 250
Lifters 200
MAC Headers w/ y-pipe 525
Gasket Kit (Thunder Racing) 190
Dyno Tune 400
Get heads pressure checked
and valve job, with very minor work 825
Pushrods (hardened) 35
160* thermostat 20
plugs and wires(change while there out) 100
Oil & Coolant 50

Total 2500 or so

On the Dyno I put down 343 RWHP and 342 LB/FT of Torque

I am a M6 so I didn't need a Stall.......You could do it for 800 less but you also then need to add for a stall....and you already have the headers so I say go for it.....You can get a Craftsman Torque Wrench at Sear for 100 buck and It is good forever....

I took my time and had the car disassembled in 2 1/2 days working for about 5 hours a day and reassembled and runningint about 15 hours over two more days.......


Go for it the idle alone is nasty enough to make me drool everytiime I hear it start up...



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