What are the part numbers for what I need, I went to summit and they recomened CCA-986-16 Valve springs, CCA-740-16 Retainers, CCA-611-16 Valve locks, CCA-503-16 Valve seals, CCA-07-306-8 Cam itsself ,

Now do I actually need to valve seals or anything, right now im getting what is actually needed bare minumum. I know I would want 1.6RR but they will come later!

 

might wanna look into replacing your timingchain and sprockets. Who will be doin the tune on the pcm? Yes changing out the valve seals is a good idea.

 

Ive got it all lined up and few weeks ill order the parts, I was thinking to have MadZ28 take care of my tuning. Now alot of people say with a A4 you will need a stall and gears and Im sure this is true but I was thinkinggg, When im going through town in D not OD Im always about 700 or more rpm's higher than in OD so I dont see why this also cannot help out till I buy a stall or even when in OD the way I drive I usualy accelerate pretty rapidly to 40 in no time anyhow just my style, now ive never experience cam surge except when i first got my car it was stumbling but lt's fixed that, i dont know how it will feel but I dont see why D wouldnt be good or hell it should surely be better than OD without 3.73 or 2800K stall anyhow. Does this sound right? Because gears accelerate quicker by reving quicker and keeps you in a higher RPM where the cam will work best well D is a whole lot differnt than OD. Feel free to correct or inject your ideas!

 

The 306 is a" healthy" cam. I had surge with a six-speed and 410's. This cam is not recommened for an auto without stall and gears. I am not saying people have not done it,but you will not like it. If you are going to do it,do it right.

 

any other ideas??

 

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ck to see if the heads will need to be machined for the springs your ordering, i ordered mine from combination motorsports , no maching needed, good to .600 lift

 

I decided to go with the Crane vavlespring kit from summit instead everyone says that has them that they drop right in no machining required

 

Nothing like that quick 100 shot of nitrous, i just finished mine, and it 's about to make me change my mine about the cam install, but i'm pretty sure i'll still do it....... MUST HAVE MORE SPEED!, but the N2o is a big jump! and so easy to do!

 

I don't think the stock 1.5 rockers are meant to revv much higher than 6000rpm. Anyone confirm that?

 

i dont want to rev any higher than 6200 i dont think maybe thats even to high but i will get 1.6's

 

How high would be safe to rev on stock bottom end?

 

The D and OD dont really have much to do with the stall, the stall and gears is mainly so that when you punch it off the line, for 1, your care won't stumble and stall, 2 by raising the stall speed of the torque conv. the engine will use more power to make the car move forward than normally, if you've noticed your car pulls a lot harder above 4,500 rpms than it does at 1,500, so what it is in a sense doing, is multiplying(is that right?) the torque transferred to the rear wheels, by lowing your gear ratio, you are also multipying the torque at the rear wheels, the more torque, the more you are going to pull between oh say, 1,500-3,00 rpms, thats when the horsepower will start to take over, and with that cam, it should make a nice set up. Not quite sure what you meant by the Drive and Over-Drive deal.

 

N2o is fairly easy, till something big breaks!

 

I meant i heard when just cruising around you will have cam surge, well in drive your in higher rpms so your flowing more air and better velocity right? Wouldnt that help out the surging along with tuning by madwolf?