If you didn't measure the dowel pin during the cam install, I have heard 3 measurements. One is .620, Shoebox measured his to be .650, and a reliable source on this board says the GM blueprint says .685. When you take the old opti off, see if there is a mark in the bottom of the slot that could have been made by the tip of the dowel, just to know that that isn't the problem.

 

i didnt measure the dowel, i only eyed it up with the stock cam. Look about te same. lol. What should i use to measure it. if it is too long or short, do i just replace it with the stock one or hat?

havent had time to work on it today but i will do it tomorrow. first i am going to make sure all my wires are on the right plug and i will test for spark.

If i dont get sparkdoes that mean the opti is bad?

 

You can't really measure the dowel pin properly now unless you remove the timing chain cover, and timing chain. I wouldn't go that far if you eyeballed it and it looked close. Like I mentioned before, if there's no mark at the bottom of the opti slot, I would think you're alright there. Here is an example where Comp Cams screwed up. The one on the right is their mistake.
http://csce.uark.edu/~jgbertr/rb/dowel_pins.jpg
Your problem does sound like something to do with the ignition. I don't think it has to do with the 1 turn on the valve adjustment, it would still run. Even a crossed spark plug wire, it would still run.
Where the hell is Shoebox when you need him. Probably eating barbaque and drinking beer, oh well. Did you check for corrosion on the coil to opti wire. I wish I had an answer for you.
Your symtoms do sound like when my opti went bad.

 

Hey man, I appreciate the help. Ya, no way did it look like it was offf like that. That is way off. At the very worst if I saw there was a mark Icould grind it down some with it in the car. idont thin kthat is the problem though.

Now, when I checked for spark just a little bit ago, it has spark. I used the wire, screwdriver, and header test. lol. Got zapped pretty good too.

My thought is the opti too though, one of the bottom connections cracked off too. Not sure from what but it appeared to be that way for a while and not from it getting dissassembled or put together.

Any idea as to why when I had the car running and pedal fully depressed it didnt rev up at all? Is that an opti sign too?

EDIT: You dont think it would be computer, coil, or the coil sensor related would you?

 

When my opti went bad, it sounds like your symptoms. When you put the pedal to the metal, there was like a pause, and it seemed like it wanted to rev but wouldn't.
What happen to your problem with the throttle cable? There's really no way to adjust it.

 

Well,I hope for your sake you are right.

 

I wouldn't think it would be the computor. You didn't touch it with the cam swap. In your case, it has to be something that was removed and put back on, or something that was moved. Things do not go bad because of a cam swap. Same for the opti, but the symptoms are there. Maybe you should listen to the previous post, what ever it means.
The coil is easy to check if you have a muti-meter. Around 8K resistance is good.
Take the opti apart and see what it looks like inside.

 

He is referring to my 1 turn being too much. I highly doubt that is the reason the car wont start. That would cause the valve to be jsut a little short of closing. Why would that prevent it from starting. Lifter will give a little too I imagine.

Grease actually borrowed my computer and coil pack for a day to get his car running again. They worked fine on his car though. he also has firsthand tightened his rockers to 1 and 3/4 and worked fine.

I can only see it being the opti. My dad listened to it and said the timing sounds off or something I guess. he said that to refer to the opti. I know I aligned the dots on the chain.