Carbon Pellets in EVAP Line
Carbon Pellets in EVAP Line
I was pulling things off my intake manifold (working on fixing the intake leak) and found that the curved rubber line between the EVAP vacuum switch and the EVAP canister solenoid valve (in image below) was FULL of carbon pellets.

What does this mean exactly, and what do I need to replace/repair it? I have never thrown any codes for this and didn't notice any issues prior to seeing the carbon pellets.
I read that it means the EVAP canister is clogged.

What does this mean exactly, and what do I need to replace/repair it? I have never thrown any codes for this and didn't notice any issues prior to seeing the carbon pellets.
I read that it means the EVAP canister is clogged.
It means the charcoal in the evap canister is breaking up. The broken pieces can get into evap solenoids or valves causing them to stick open or closed, which will set a code on obdII cars (96+). The canister has to be replaced and lines cleaned out.
Like already mentioned. The filter in the top of the cannister is ripped and the engine is sucking in the pellets. Chances are the plastic tube on the front and the solenoid are clogged up.
I have managed to clean the tube and the solenoid in the past. Clean the tube by using degreaser and something you can shove in it to break up the clog. The solenoid you have to carefully cut open and disasseble to remove the pellets.
If you decide to repair the EVAP, put a filter on the line exiting the cannister that runs to the motor to prevent it from happening again.
I have managed to clean the tube and the solenoid in the past. Clean the tube by using degreaser and something you can shove in it to break up the clog. The solenoid you have to carefully cut open and disasseble to remove the pellets.
If you decide to repair the EVAP, put a filter on the line exiting the cannister that runs to the motor to prevent it from happening again.
Wow those EVAP canisters are more expensive than I would have thought
This is a crappy year for my car! Trans dies, windshield cracks, various oil leaks, a few nails in tires, dead window motor...
This is a crappy year for my car! Trans dies, windshield cracks, various oil leaks, a few nails in tires, dead window motor...
Yeah they are terribly overpriced. I bought a used one for $20 off the board and put it on the shelf. It seems to be good but its a roll of the dice.
You could just delete the EVAP and vent the tank to atmosphere. You will smell gas fumes more kind of like the cars of the 60's.
You could just delete the EVAP and vent the tank to atmosphere. You will smell gas fumes more kind of like the cars of the 60's.
What would the issue be if I kept the canister as is (less carbon pellets I guess), put an inline filter to stop more from migrating down the line, and just ran it like that? The system would still be closed so I shouldn't small fuel, right?
Also, with the canister being in the rear driver-side wheel well (according to my manual), the carbon pellets could be from there in the line all the way up to the intake. Any tips on how to clean it out? Compressed air maybe? Also, any tips on how to clean out the switch/solenoid?
Also, with the canister being in the rear driver-side wheel well (according to my manual), the carbon pellets could be from there in the line all the way up to the intake. Any tips on how to clean it out? Compressed air maybe? Also, any tips on how to clean out the switch/solenoid?
Your computer probably monitors being able to pull and hold a vacuum on the fuel tank- the purge solenoid and the evap solenoid cycle at different times, to burn off the accumulated vapors from the canister. I had an evap solenoid fail on my S10 truck, and it was intermittent. Would set a light, code 301 IIRC, and would stay on for while, then go out- took me almost 2 years to chase it down and replace the correct solenoid, which only cost about 15 bucks. I would try to find a good canister at a recycling yard, for cheap- if that didn't work out, I suppose you could try an in-line filter, like a fuel filter, to stop the carbon from migrating- but that line needs to be able to pull the vapors enough to place a vacuum on the fuel tank- or the OBD II will be unhappy.
I've never had the charcoal canister problem but if the cost is so high I'd check the phone listings for a laboratory supply house and price a jug of activated charcoal granules. They're probably available in the same size granule as needed to refill the canister. I think some pet supply houses also sell granules for refilling air purifying canisters for fish tank air pumps.
Last edited by NJ-LE; Sep 13, 2010 at 04:05 PM. Reason: added info
What is the difference between the "purge" solenoid" and the "evap" solenoid? Per the emissions diagrams, there is only a single solenoid - the "evap purge" solenoid mounted on the bracket on the passenger side of the intake manifold.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
carguy0119
2010 - 2015 Camaro Wheels, Tires, Brakes, Suspension
4
Apr 11, 2016 11:11 PM



