Hey guys. I have an LT1 motor complete in my smashed '94, and I might need to borrow this motor for my carburated car for a while. Does anyone make carburator intakes for LT1s? And if so, how much and what is involved in the swap? I figure, with an HEI and a carb intake, that is all I would need to get it running, right? Thanks guys.

 

Somebody has to know.

 

Summit has one. Its about $250.

 

gm performance parts has one. It's about $190 or so, check scoggin dickey at www.sdpc2000.com they have competitive prices. Adding and hei should be fine, I think you'll need a special timing cover to block the area where the opti would go, or at least a plug of some kind. Check with scoggin dickey, they'll know for sure.

 

there is a dummy or stub drive installed in the rear of the lifter valley where a older small block chevy would have its distributor. since the lt1 uses a front mount opti that it driven by the camshaft nose, this dummy drive is installed so a conventional distributor will pass through this hole when the stub/dummy drive is removed.
this is what needs to be done when putting a 4 barrel on:
You will need to plug the distributor drive hole in the center of the timing cover with the GM cover plug (P/N 12367600). You will be using the same bolts and locations that mount the factory opti. Since the original torsional dmper is 7.5 inch diameter, it won't clear the timing tab on the front cover plug plate. If you are using a rear mount distributor, you'll need to install a .184 " x .680 " key into the crank snout's front key slot and obtain a small block chevy zero balanced damper with a diameter of 6.75 ". This will completely replace the factory hub adapter and damper. GM Performance Parts makes a 4 barrel intake manifold that will fit the LT1. For street dualplane applications, the manifold for the LT1 has a P/N of 24502592. I am assuming you want one for a LT1 and NOT a LT4. You must run the proper one depending on whether you have LT1 or LT4 heads in order to achieve the proper flow and sealing at the intake ports. This manifold has a hole for a rear mount distributor so any chevy small block distibutor will work. in order to install the rear mount dist., the # 1 piston needs to be at TDC and the # 1 intake and exhaust valves must be fully closed. With the intake manifold installed, look down the distributor hole and notice the angle of the oil pump drivshaft slot. The slot should aim toward the #7 cylinder's intake rocker. Stand at the rear of the engine block and face forward and slowly lower the distributor into its mounting hole, with the rotor aiming about 45 degrees to your left. when the distributor is fully seated, the rotor will aim at the # 1 spark plug location of the distributor cap. As you lower the distributor, its drive gear will engage with the cam gear and the rotor will turn. If the distributor does not fully seat, it is not aligned with the oil pump driveshaft slot. Raise the distributor up, use a long screwdriver to turn the oil pump driveshaft a bit, and try again. Once fully seated and the rotor aim toward #1 plug wire terminal, rotate the crankshaft a full 360 degrees clockwise back to TDC and verify that the rotor is aimed correctly. Once you are satisfied with the distributor location, install the hold down clamp and bolt. Hand snug the bolt for now since you will be adjusting distributor timing later in the vehicle. When installing the rear mount distributor, you won't need the original oil pump drive stub tht was originally bolted to the lifter valley floor.

I would like to recognize Mike Mavrigian for these procedures in his book "How to Rebuild Small-Block Chevy LT1/LT4 Engines." By the way, I think this is an excellent book!!!

 

AFAIK, only a dual plane manifold is commercially available. Here are pics of a single plane Super Vic converted to LT1 use.

http://community.webshots.com/album/81222470blShtq

Pics are from this thread in Advanced Tech:

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...hreadid=144278