Ok, I put everything together and I doubled checked everything today to make sure everything is in the correct spot and in order.

All ground wires are connected as they should.
Battery was tested at 2 different shops and they say the battery is fine.
Optispark is new, wires are new, plugs are new.

When I turn the key to the on position I can hear the fuel pump priming. My fuel meter on my gauge however stays at 1/4 tank mark weather the key is in the ignition or weather the key is out of the car.

I am using a heads/cam tune for 24lb injectors, however I bumped the injector constant to 32 since that is what my injectors are rated for.

The car battery voltage is at 12.2 when the key is in the on position and it drops to 8.8 while trying to crank. I am using freescan to view and tunercat to upload .bin files.

My oil pressure will go to 20psi while cranking and shortly die off after I stop cranking. When the key is inserted and turned to the on position the oil pressure reads 0.

It just makes a starting noise like there is electrical but no fuel.

My SES light is on, my check gauges light is on and my ABS INOP light is on.

My ABS INOP light was on before the rebuild, so prolly a speed sensor.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks again guys for all the help!

 

have you already tested fuel pressure at KOEO?? And what do you mean the ABS INOP light check gauge light and SES lights are on?? Do you mean when you have the ignition on or when the car is starting?? If its when you are in KOEO, they are supposed to be lit up.

Anyway, double check the plug wires are all plugged in, a buddy of mine had that same problem and it was 2 loose plug wires, almost made it seem like the timing was badly off with the spitting and sputter and "burping" out of the TB. Is it even turning over??? What do you mean exactly by "starting noise" and by it sounding "electrical with no fuel".

 

It wont even turn over... I can feel the starter turning the flywheel over each time the starter does its thing, but the car wont even try and start... Like basically when you unplug the spark plugs from a snowmachine or four wheeler and go to start it... Thats the sound it makes. It doesnt even sound like there is anything happening. I need another person so I can tell what it really is. Cant really tell if its bad spark or fuel unless I get someone else to crank her over for me..

The SES light, check gauges light and ABS INOP lights are on during the "On position with the key."

I havent even gotten it to try and turn over a little bit. I am either missing spark or fuel. So fustrating without anyone willing to lend a hand.

 

Ok I was able to pursuade my wife to help me out. Defiantly no spark to any of the spark plug wires... I will do a search and see if I can figure out the problem.

 

Ok, I figured out there isnt any spark to the ignition coil either so I am in the process of tracking down the electrical problem...

I was following this guide... And was curious what they mean by "Leave the coil connected".

I removed the spark plug wire from the ignition coil to the optispark, the top ignition coil connector and the bottom 4 prong connector to the ignition module.

With doing this I read 5.5volts on harness A and .11volts on Harness D.

Can someone verify that this is the correct procedure.

*Edit*

I connected the bottom connectors to the coil and the spark plug wire to the opti and then tested from A to ground and D to ground and got the same results.

I then checked the voltage from the ignition fuse to ground and got 12.12 volts dc.

Is my coil bad or my ICM?

Thanks.

 

Ok, I checked my coil using shoebox's site and it is right where it should be 8.7mega ohms. I cleaned up the connection on the coil that goes to the optispark with a wheel buffer and plugged everything back in... Tested the wiring harness again that comes from the pcm and the A connector readings and the D connector readings are the same.

Any idea what it might be?

 

Not sure on the electrical, but as far as fuel. Lift up your fuel rail. Make sure all the injectors are out of the intake. Spray brake cleaner around the intake holes first so you don't get any debris down inside your motor. Disconnect the coil wire so it doesn't start on accident. Have an assistant turn the key over and you can observe to see if your injectors are spraying. It should look like a fine conical mist. If you have good fuel pressure and you see good spray, then you have troubleshooted your fuel system.

Z

 

You should get battery voltage on A and D. Use this to test and make sure you are looking at the proper terminals on the connector. They go A-B-C-D.

 

Shoebox, I was using that guide to troubleshoot and above is what I got for my voltages.

A=5v
D=.11v

This is measuring the harness off of the pcm side, the harness that sits on the passenger side of the intake. I measured from the pcm harness side, not the opti harness side. Is this the correct process?

 

It is the ICM harness you should be reading (with harness unplugged from ICM).

 

Ahh, I see. I will go down and check that. LOL. I bet I get more accurate readings that way.

 

Ok I went down and checked for DV voltage on the A and D connections on the ICM connector. I got .07Vdc on A and .01Vdc on D.

Here is the picture of the connector that I was testing.

http://shbox.com/1/coil_loc.jpg

The one that says iginition coil module. That connector. I left the coil conectors plugged in and the optispark to coil connection via spark plug left in as well as the optispark connector that goes to the passenger side valve cover harness connector.

The grounds that are attached to the ICM stud and nut are 2 white wires one black wire and one ground strap wire that goes to the frame of the car.

Thanks again shoebox.

 

If anyone has ran across this same problem and has any insight I would appreciate it. I checked on a new ICM and they want 96 bucks for one and its not returnable. So I dont want to purchase one if thats not my problem.

Thanks again!

 

Do you know anyone who has a f-body you can swap for troubleshooting. I usually don't recomment junk yards for elecronics, but call them and see if they have any, they might for only a few dollars, prob about 20, just guessing though.

Z

 

Yah, my buddy is coming over today with his car and we are going to try swapping the ICM. I doubt that will fix the problem since the connector to the ICM isnt ohming out correctly like it should. So i think maybe one of the connector wires is grounded out??