Okay, so here's what I found.

- Fuel pressure gauge on the Schrader valve shows 45psi dead solid. After I turn the key off it bleeds off all the pressure within 4-5 minutes. During cranking, pressure stays solid at 45psi on the gauge.

- I tested the ICM and Opti. Here are my results:

Opti: 5v DV on terminals A and B.
- O ohms between D and ground, and on all connectors.
- I didn't have a test light to probe terminal C on the Opti

ICM connector
- With ignition on I got 12v on A and D. I got 2.6v AC (on B or C terminal) while cranking on the second wire from the right.
- Hard to describe but when you look at the connector with the clip on the top I got...
12.4 0.64 2.6 12.4

OK, now for a few questions and observations.
1) My check engine light NEVER goes out no matter whether it's cranking or sitting with the key on.
2) My AutoProm BIN uploads are verifying.
3) I am getting a solid and regular spark with a grounded spark plug.
4) I cannot check left and right banks at the same time because I only have one noid light.
5) When I check for codes by grounding terminals A and B on my ALDL I do NOT get a code readout. The SES on the ALDL stays on solid. I think this signifies a problem.
6) This engine has never run with the EFI so I can't guarantee 'anything' works other than parts I have purchased. The previous owner said the engine ran but quit within a few seconds. It had been hit on the passenger side and I always figured the fuel line was pinched. Something else may have been going on but I never found out. Instead, I was running a carb on the engine.

Where do I go next? It looks like my Opti is good and my ICM is good, too? Am I looking at a bad PCM or BIN upload? I have verified numerous times that VATS has been burned out using the AutoProm.

Thanks again for the help,
Colin

 

If you have SES find out what it is. Chances are good it's like Fred said and it's a 16.

Or you can actually rotate the engine by hand to see if the low res signal is changing from 5 to 0 and back

But getting the code would make more sense. If its a 93 ECM you can flash the code with a pager clip.

 

I tried the paper clip. Knew that trick from my IROC days. No flash of the CEL. It just stays on. :/ It never turns off unless I key off power.

 

If your ALDL connector is wired correctly, and you use the paper clip correctly, you should get the flashes for "12" indicating that the ECM has entered diagnostic mode. If you don't get any flashes at all, its a wiring problem or you aren't doing it correctly.

Courtesy of Shoebox:

http://shbox.com/1/dlc2.jpg

 

Fred,
Here's a video of the ALDL being jumped with a paperclip. I jumped it exactly like I have with my IROC-Zs in the past. The light never flashes and it never turns off.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=myYs4-cpi-8

The ALDL harness came integrated with the Painless harness. Per their instructions I just have to find a suitable place for it to be mounted so I can see the light as needed.

 

What light are you talking about, something in the harness?

You're gona have to establish communications for nothing else than to be sure the ecm works. Though it seems that you get everything except injection pulses.

 

If you watched my video you saw the ALDL and SES light. Painless provides a simple plastic mount and then they zip tie the SES light and the ALDL to it. As it stands, the SES light stays on constantly and I never get a Code 12 when jumping with a paperclip. I understand the process, as I own IROC-Z.org and have had to check codes in the past. I'm just really confused. I'm thinking I have a bad BIN (got it directly from TunerPro) or a bad PCM.

 

If the SES light is on all the time, you need to trace the wiring. Sounds like its not connected to the right pin.

 

Fred,
I took out my Moates G1 adapter and put the stock PROM in. I immediately was able to get a SES response. The SES turns on for about 2 seconds and turns off. I got code 12 (good!) and code 46 (VATS). I think I can rule out a bad PCM.

Here's a video from Youtube of me starting with the stock PROM: [autostream]http://autostream.com/camaroz28/?page_type=firebirdplayerthumbnail&framepage=1365& transactionid=1310014431-98112895&posted_by=Colin_www.camaroz28.com&youtube _video_id=aG_lDzG1oO0[/autostream]

So, I either need to read my stock PROM and save it as a bin (unsure how to do that with the AutoProm) or find a good bin. I think the bin that's on Moates.net isn't good.

I am using:
$DA3 bin def from http://tunerpro.net/download/bindefs/GM/DA3.xdf
Bdld with lower fan (93 Z28 M6).bin from Moates.net (I turned off VATS in this same BIN and that was my only change to it).

Thanks again,
Colin

 

Another quick question...

Would it be possible to 'fake' a VATS signal without having a VATS module? As in, trick the stock PROM for now? I don't have any of the original underdash wiring but I do have the original engine harness. If it's too much trouble I'll skip it and just wait for an adapter from Moates that will let me read my stock PROM.

Thanks,
Colin