I re-adjusted all my rockers and still have driving issues. Car starts right up and idles fine, and revs fine in park. Driving is another issure all together... In reverse it died on me once, and has a hard time on the get go when put in gear. Just idles down really low like ~500 rpm's or so. Basically stumbles all around go up through the rpm's. I'm pretty sure I may need new O2's, but I don't think that would have this bad of a cause.

Mods are: Lloyd Elliott heads, 306 cam, 1.6rr's, Jet-Hot LT's, and all your other bolt on crap. Stock injectors for now and TB.
Car is an A4 with 2.73s... But I thought guys didn't have a huge problem with this cam and stock converter for a little while?

Also when I got done driving around the block, smoke poured out of my cowl, opened the hood and smoke was just rolling off the motor... Common after a rebuild? Wasn't over-heating or anything.

I should have a sound clip tomorrow of my heads/cam/exhaust setup.

 

No verter is fine with 3.73s
2.73s and your dead in the water. That's too much load at low rpms. Is your pcm programmed?

 

Did you break the new motor in? If so, all the grease & oil from your hands that were on your engine should have worn off by then..Its common for the motor to smoke about 5 mins after initial start-up after touching the headers,etc..with your oily hands.

Sounds like you have a tuning issue w/ your poor drivablility. What kind of tuning do you have by the way?

Was your O2's acting up before the rebuild?

Cody

 

Yulp, the PCM is reprogrammed... Like I said it idles really well, kinda high I think (900). But Bryan may have it set up there with my curtain drivetrain config. Revs fine in park, moving is a whole nother story.

 

Bryan did my tuning from PCM For Less. O2's were fine before hand, I took the pass. side out while working on the car. These are still the stockers. They're both reading around 450 at idle and jump up to around 800-900 as the rpm's move up. Before my whole build-up, I believe they were at or around 800-900 at idle.

 

I'd look into a possible misfire or doing something about those gears.



Another note: My idle with the 233/239 was set to 950.

 

I bet you have 2 of your plug wires on backwards mixed up. Idling you cant tell because the 306 sounds so radical and once put in gear it stalls and its a pig. Same thing happend to me before CHECKS YOUR WIRES!!!

 

I'll definitely be looking into gears as soon as I get back from Spring Break, but I don't think that is really the big problem I'm facing. New opti, MSD wires, and I'm also running plugs I never have had before (Bosch Platinums). Checked all the plug wires and they all go to their corrdinating location.

 

xxsaint69x had they same prob. and had me check them, they checked out OK, but I'll tank another look. He had the same problem. Another thing I'll do is swap back to my MSD coil and bypass my MSD Digital 6 to see if that cures any problems.

 

I had the same thing happen with 2 plug wires crossed with the 306 after i finished heads/cam and couldnt tell at idle because I thought it was supposed to sound that way. Sure enough 6 and 8 were crossed and thats why it wouldnt drive for crap, although it would drive, but it was slow as hell. I would guess the smoke was just grease and oil burning off the headers if that was your first decent drive.

Brandon

 

I also noticed my Scanmaster was throwing 2 codes at me, and didn't pay attention to them at the time. No SES light, but I'll start it up again tomorrow to see which codes they were. Maybe I've found my problem.

 

Yeah, the scanmaster picks up a lot of codes that dont always set an SES light. Usually it has been just a bs opti low or high res pulse when I have gotten them, when the opti is actually ok. Let us know what codes you are throwing. Are you sure you didnt get any coolant in the opti harness connector while bleeding the system??

 

anytime you have a poor driveability issue, its always a good idea to take out a couple plugs, to make sure they are still ok (as in not fouled out) I know you said they are new platinums, but take a look anyways. cant hurt and only take a few min.s to get to the easy ones.
as for the 02 readings, after warmed up, they should switch between higher then 450 and lower then 450mv at idle and part throttle. the only time it should stay at/around 8-900 mv. is at WOT or at least hard acceleration. if they are not switching after warmed up, then Id try removing them and cleaning them w/a propane torch. maybe they are carboned up and not giving a true reading. what is the fuel integrater readings at part throttle?
I agree w/the above about the gears/conv.. thats alot of head/cam for 2:73 gears and stock conv. might just be a pig w/o the rest of the parts to make up the right combo. you need 3000 stall and at least 3:42 gears. good luck.

 

I am having the same problem with a 94 T/A with a cc305 cam, I hope it's the plug wires crossed, the thing is slower than a V6 car. It idles just fine, and drives ok below 2grand, but if you stand on it, it feels like the car is gonna come apart, and I swear I could get out and run faster, it has a stock tune on it.

Let us know what you find out with yours.

Jason

 

That & you have to tune the IAC tables especially if you have a HOLLEY throttle body, those things won't run with cams without changing the IAC tables drastically because they are a non bypass TB meaning that it forces everything through IAC valve, you can either turn the screw to open it up some or change your IAC tables, I found with cc306+ you need a minimum 10 for the value in the IAC follower tables cuz once you come to a stop it dies or just about dies.

Also, your o2 readings shoudn't stay at 450 at idle, they should be jumping around, 450 idle is ok only when she's really cold.

Matt