Well my car starts, but after like 2 seconds dies. I unplugged the maf and it would idle but at 2500rpm. I check the iac and it was frozen and would not move. I replaced it and still the same problem. Car will not start but for a second. I unpugged the maf again and the car would idle but at 3500rpm this time. The iac was all the way closed when i installed it. Was i supposed to adjust it somehow? I am really confused and i cant figure out the problem. Any ideas? Has anyone ever had this problem before?

 

Your PCM should be shooting codes by now. Look for bad sensors such as TPS, MAP, MAF, those will usually will prevent an engine to start.

 

Well i dont have anything to scan my car with and i cant get it to run, so i cant drive it anywhere. I went ahead and replaced the map and tps last night since i figured they were pretty old anyways. Still the same problem. When i start the car it jumps to 3k rpm and then dies. With the maf disconnected it will idle at 3k to 4k rpm. I had my computer programed by pcmforless.com. Could it be something pcm related? I suppose i could have a vacume leak, how would i test for that? Maybe i need new o-rings on my injectors? Do vacume leaks just happen over night though? Because my car was working perfectly fine before. Also a weird question, but could my brake booster cause this problem? Anyone have any ideas? Im getting desparate and i really need my car.

 

Is this your first time you are attempting to start your engine since all those modifications?

I would think vaccum leak, and also check for any interference at your trottle body. On your car you really can go wrong though since you have gas and cruise control hookup.

Is it trowing any codes? Check Engine light on?

Also, check your fuel pressure, it should remain constant. go with the basics first.........

let me know what have you tried so far.....and we can go from there.

 

How tight/accurate are the rocker arms? How is the throttle stop set?

 

No, this is not my first time to start the motor after these mods. I drove it for like 20miles and the distributor started to go out. I checked the dowel pin to make sure it was not longer than the stock cam, it was fine. I put a new distributor on it and since then it has done this. The valves should be adjusted right, but i am questioning myself at everything right now. I have not messed with the throttle stop at all. I tried unplugging a few sensors and starting the car to see what happens. If i unplug the map sensor the car will not idle on its own, but if i give it gas it will idle really rough. When i keep it idling it will jump to 3k rpm randomly and come back down. Same with the iac and tps. If i unplug my maf it will still idle at 3k rpm and start to go up almost to 4k rpm. When i tried to start it again today it seemed like it was running rich, and popping sometimes. Before i did the mods i had my brakes worked on, they told my i might have a vacuum leak in my brake booster. I dont know anything about brakes and i didnt really understand. He said it should be fine to drive on, and my brakes felt fine. I checked the intake manifold to make sure everything looked ok. Everything looked fine and no lines have holes or anything. When i did the install i did take off my fuel rail, and i did not put new injector o-rings on, this might also cause i leak i guess. It is throwing codes but im not for sure what they are because i have no way to scan it. Could fuel pressure cause it to jump up in rpm?

 

Ok someone shoot me! Well i finally figured out my problem. It was acctually really stupid on my part. I didnt even think about checking the egr plates that i had to make sure they were not leaking, and what do you know one of the plates was not on there right. The one on the driver side was about half way on causing a major vacuum leak. Put the plate back on (the right way) and car started right up. Lesson well learned, dont work when you are really tired. You will only mess things up.