Can somebody decifer these numbers for me. About a week ago I replaced my O2 sensors and today I replaced my MAP sensor because it was giving me a DTC code of 33 high MAP. The O2's are all over the place. I did a scan with Datamaster and here are my numbers: I'm running 30# SVO injectors and my fuel pressure is 52 @ WOT, I need to know what's going on it's really pissing me off. Thanks for your time. BTW, I pulled the negative battery cable and the code was wiped out, but I still have a high MAP reading.

RPM= 4150
MAP KPa= 97.8
Fuel Trim Cell= 15
LTerm Counts= 137 137
STerm Counts= 138 131
BPW mS= 16.97 17.24
INJ DC= 58.7 59.6
O2 mV= 138 737
AFGS= 195.55
TPS %= 100.0
TPS Volts= 4.41
Spark Advance= 38.0
Spark Retard= 0.1
Knock Count= 2814
CCP DC= 31.4
IA Temp *F= 85.6
A/C Temp *F= 86.5
A/C Press PSI= 96.9
Idle RPM= 825
IAC Pos= 95
Speed MPH= 116

 

02 should be all over the place unless your going wot. It appears you are from the reading and they should be in the 850-950 range for both sides. You have knock and the computer is retarding the timing so something might be wrong. Its real hard to see whats happening from a snap shot of your scanner. Is the car tuned for the injectors and whats all been done to the car?

 

Pull the harness from the MAP with KOEO measure from the black to gray wire and confirm 5 volts. Then measure from black to green wire and confirm voltage. The 33 you are getting indicates the green wire is over 4 volts when it should be near 0. If you confirm its higher, then check for a short to the gray wire.

 

The car was tuned by PCMforless for the 30# injectors. I have a complete LT4 conversion, heads, hot cam, intake, long tubes, etc.

 

I did pull the harness, I think my problem might be that the connector has a crack in it, so this may be my problem. I have a new connector on order.

 

Anyway to get more numbers than just what you have? Can you run a complete datalog?

 

I think another possible cause is when I replaced the MAP sensor that little seal was crushed a little bit this might be another cause with the crack in the connector. Does anybody have the correct part # for that little seal that goes on the MAP sensor? Injuneer, Shoebox, Anybody?

 

The MAP sensor shouldn't cause the split O2 readings I don't believe. It would apply to both banks equally. Your right bank is a lean, but your left bank is either running horribly lean, or else your O2 is screwed up according to those O2 values.

Considering that your injector pulse width is the same for both banks, both sides should be getting the same fuel, but your O2 sensors are saying otherwise. My guess is that your left O2 sensor is bad.

Your long term counts also show that you are running lean.

If you can get a datamaster log, we can look at it and give you a much better idea of what's going on.

Dan

 

Shoebox has the number for many parts, including the MAP sensor seal, on his website.

http://shbox.com/1/Parts.htm

I don't see any evidence of split BLM's in that single panel of data. LT-L and LT-R are both 137. What seems odd is that you have 100% throttle opening, but it appears to still be accepting feedback from the O2 sensors. The Short Terms are not locked at 128. I think that's why you are seeing such a wide discrepancy of L and R O2 readings.... normal in closed loop. The question is, why hasn't it gone into PE mode?

Why do you have your fuel pressure at 52 PSI?

What is the MAP reading at idle - that's when DTC 33 would set?

With 38* of advance, and only 0.1* of knock retard, I wouldn't be concerned.

A single frame like that is pretty much useless. Why don't you do a full data log, and post the files so people can look at them (not volunteering, because I already have a huge backlog of files to look at)?

 

Thanks Injuneer. What do you suggest my fuel pressure should be set at?

 

Whats your fuel pressure with the key on but not started? Also what is it with the vacuum line disconnected to the fpr?

 

Fuel pressure should be set at whatever pressure you told your tuner it was going to be set at. If you told him it would be running at 52psi, then its OK. If you didn't tell him it was running at something other than the stock fuel pressure, he assumed 43.5psi. If you're running 52psi on a 43.5psi tune, your injectors are flowing 9.3% more than the tuner figured they would.

 

My fuel pressure is 46 @ idle and 52 @ WOT

 

OK... that's what you already told us. 52psi at WOT. That's approx. the same number you would get at idle, without the vacuum line connected. Connect the vacuum line, and you will get 4-8psi less, depending on your cam.

What did you tell pcmforless that you were running?