If it ran on that cylinder, you know it's getting the pulse from the PCM.

Sounds like the injector is dumping too much fuel and fouling the plug. What did the old plug look like?

 

The old plug was black but not wet, with a little carbon build up. I havn't been driving it at all and i only started it for maybe a minute to test the primary temperatures. 2 min after swapping it out all of the primaries were at 180. At this point i drove it for 10 minutes. After i drove it and it sat for 5 minutes About 15 min i tested the temperatures again and all the primaries except #7 were at 220ish. Number 7 was hovering around 160 the entire time.

If that injector is flooding #7 would it drip while pressurized? I'm going to take the rail off today hopefully and try that. If it doesn't drip I was planning on swapping it out with with another. I'm just afraid it might hydrolock on me if it is the injector.

 

could i just lay a towel on the intake take off the fuel rail then start the car and make sure they are all squirting strong?

 

Hard crumbly carbon is from oil. Fuel fouling looks like velvet. IF you could crank it long enough, you would have to collect fuel from each injector over a period of time and compare the amount collected during that exact same amount of time for each one. You should also look at them when it's pressurized while lifted up but not cranking.

Swapping an injector from another cylinder will also give you an indication of what is going on.

 

I just started doing that, after i pulled the rail i pressurized the system and it didn't leak. Then i pulled the coil and had the woman crank the car and they looked the same. So i'm swapping the #7 and #1 to see if the problem follows the injector. Almost done just ran out of daylight, maybe tomarrow if the weather stays ok.

 

Checked the spark and it hit a couple of times, but seemed that it might have stopped. I swapped out the injectors for #1 and #7 and the problem didn't follow the injector. So i need to make sure that it was getting spark for sure, and make sure its getting a signal from the pcm. Problem is that i do not have a noid light or know anyone that does. can i do it with a multimeter?

as for the spark issue, i don't want to load up #7 with fuel while i'm checking for spark. Could i pull the plug off of the injector without causing problems while i check it further? I pulled the wire off of it and stuck a screwdriver in it and it arced 2 times (was using my primarys as the other end). Is this good enough? It didn't seam that bright.

 

AHHHHH ok i never claimed to be a mechanic. The plastic cover over the stearing linkage was slid down, when i would turn the wheel at all it would push the spark plug wire for #7 into the primary! When i checked it the 1st time it was dark so i just slid my fingers back on it and the wheels where strait so it wasn't touching!

 

Fixed the wire now its fine until it goes into closed loop, at wot its fine?

 

Remember at WOT it is in open loop also. So the problem remains. The only way you are going to find it is look at the O2 readings and the fuel trims to see what each are doing.

 

k will do

 

ran into a problem i don't have access to a scanner anymore. I do have a laptop, is there a program i can use if i get a cable?

 

http://www.carputing.com/

 

For scanning, if that's what you want:

FreeScan:
http://www.andywhittaker.com/

DataMaster:
http://www.ttspowersystems.com/

If you also want tuning software, LT1_Edit from carputing can include pcmcomm scan software.

Cable from:

http://www.akmcables.com/

 

i got payed yesterday so i'm going to order the wire so i can log the data, but today i unplugged both o2's to force it to stay into open loop and the car ran great the entire time. So whatever is going on its because of going into closed loop, i assume one of the sensor's (map, iac, o2)is broken and causeing fuel correction problems. The fact that it runs fine during open loop means i can rule out problems with the ignition/injectors/pcm. Does this seem reasonable?

 

As far as I know (Fred correct me if I'm wrong) only the O2s are ignored during open loop. Remember at WOT, it goes into open loop so it must still use the other sensors during that time.

The fact that it ignores the O2's during open loop but still runs fine does NOT mean the PCM is operating correctly. If the PCM O2 inputs were defective, it would give the same result.

Although I have never seen an OBDI PCM defective before.