sweet so all i need is the plugs and that taylor otvc kit. did youg et the hand crimper for it? or the vice one? i would use the hand crimper one. did it make a good connection when u crimped it. have you had any problems out of it? how long have you had it. also those long bolts that the kit comes with. does that go through the valve cover to hold those brackets that hold the wires down? how do those brakets mount in other words. also are the wires actually touching the valve cover? wouldnt that get too hot and burn them/melt them? your pictures are good but its hard to see if the wires are actually touching or not. also on the plugs should i go with the stock ac delco platinum plugs? it hink they are like 7 bucks a plug and tax or should i go with the ngk tr55 plugs they are only 2.25 on thunder racing but they are copper. will they last as long as the ac's? the acs are what i have now. they are supposed to last 100k but i doub that but how good are the ngk's and at the gap of .50 do i have to regap it or is that the factory gap? well let me know on all this asap. i will hopefully be doing this in the next week or so. i want to get this done asap thanks guys.\\

sweet never mind on those long center bolts. i found out where they go. they just go where the factory valve cover center bolts are right? so i just take the stock ones out and replace with new and mount the brackets there.

 

Yep, all you should need is the Taylor OTVC kit and plugs. I don't think it comes with anti-seize compound or silicone lubricant. I got the hand crimper with it and it worked fine. Haven't had any problems since I installed the kit about 5 months ago.

Yes, the bolts that come with the kit are for holding the brackets down onto the valve cover, they replace the old valve cover bolts. Basically, from what I remember, there are 2 pieces to the bracket, and the bolt. The bottom piece has groves for where you lay the wire then the top piece covers it to 'seal' the wire in. At one end of the bracket there is a hole for where you put the bolt through and that holds it to the valve cover. The top and bottom pieces come with screws I think, and that's what clamps them together. The wires do sort of rest on the valve cover, but I don't think the valve cover gets hot.

For plugs, I stuck with the stock AC Delco Platinums. But you can do a search and see what other people say about different plugs. I can't remember what the gap was supposed to be on my AC's.

 

man you have been extremely informative and helpful. thanks. i think ima order the taylor otvc kit and get the ac's maybe depends on the money i have going to it. hopefully ill have enuff to get the ac's they are a bit more expensive. like 7 bucks or so. i can get anti seize from autozone or an auto parts store and what do i do with the silicone lubricant? i thought i use die electric grease on the plug boots where it connects on the plug and do i use it also on the boots that plug into the optispark as well? i kno i put the anti seize on the electrode of the plugs right? was it hard to reroute them? did the alternator get in the way of the passenger sid and on the driver side did the water pump get in the way of it as well or the pulleys? thanks amn let me know. another thing. were the stock wires hard to get out like pull them all out was it pretty hard to do? cuz theres not a lot of room and they are in those tight places. trhanks

 

Your welcome, I'm just doing my part on this board. Anti-seize is for the threads of the spark plug, not the electrodes. You don't want to get any of it on the electrodes. I think di-electric grease and silicone lubricant serve the same purpose, and are therefore interchangeable. You use it on the inside of the boot and then push it over the exposed terminal of the plug. You will have to remove the alternator for the passenger side, but that is easy. That's pretty much all I had to remove for changing plugs. I do have headers, which I'm sure makes this task easier. Pulling the old wires out was pretty easy to do. Changing your plugs/wires isn't really that hard of a task. First time, it will take patience. After that, you pretty much know what to do.

 

thanks for the info. i still have stock manifolds. do you stlil think that otvc kit will work well. cuz remember with the stock manifolds theres no separation between each exhaust pipe for each cylinder. it has that huge long silver heatshield there to cover all the stock pipes. will that affect the wires. cuz that would retain heat and im hoping that i can get the wires away from those heat shields. other than that i think im set. also when removeing the alternator it just mounts to that bracket right? so theres no adjustment to it at all. i just simply remove. then when im done rebolt it back up and theres no adjustment. just wanted to make sure on that cuz thats what it looks like. im going to change my belt also when i do it. i hope all goes well. u have any problems with the pucks falling off on your platinum plugs? i did a search on the ngks and people said the plats last longer but the pucks fall off and get in to the cylinders and with the ngks they dont do that cuz they are copper and also they dnot last as long as plats do. well thanks man hit me up if u want on aim or aol. eac95z28 thanks

 

I can't remember the setup with stock manifolds. If you think it'll work, go for it. Worst case scenario is you have to route the wires the stock way and still cut/crimp them. The alternator is easy to remove and put back on, nothing but bolts. Just remember which bolt goes where, because i belive they are different. Never heard of that problem with platinum plugs, either.

 

hey sup man. i ordered the otvc kit and got the iwres and boots and everything today. actually like 10 minutes ago. anyway were any of the wires you got seemed short by any chance? were they long enough for you? how much did you have to cut off of the ends? with the stock manifolds i have to route them out and then above to the valve cover whether with headers u can route them straight up. u know what im talking about cuz the stock manifolds have that huge heat shield there so i need a extra length to route them out away from the manifolds then on top of the valve cover. also were any of the pullies any the way on the passenger side? did they get real close to them after u routted them to the opti? or did u somehow keep them back far enough so they would never touch or rub. i dont want any of the pullies cutting up these brand new wires. they look nice i got the red ones. i was hoping they ahd greeen cause my car is green but they didnt. anyway i am hoping to get started this weekend and finish it but i have some stuff to do so i dont know. ir eally need to get this done. well hit me up with some info on how you routed cut your wires and all. thanks man i appreciate all the help. also when htye plug into the opti on the passenger side was the tensioner pully in the way as well as the big crank pully in front of the opti. looks like its going to be tough to unplug stock wires and plug the new ones in place. well hit me up on eac95z28@aol.com or im or here thanks man.

 

Not all of the wires in the kit are the same length. Use the shorter wires for the plugs that require less length. I can't remember how much I had to cut off on them, just enough so that I had a little slack on the wire when installing them. The thing that took the longest with the wires was cutting and crimping them because you don't want to mess that up, so take your time. None of the pullies prevented me from getting the wires where I wanted them to go... it is a tight fit, though, so you will have to kind of cram the wires down. I have never had any rub on the pull or any moving part. Make sure you know which wire is supposed to go where because when they get crammed together it can be tough deciphering that. Good luck installing the wires, it really isn't that hard and you will realize that when you are done. It can be frustrating, though, but that's cars for you.

 

well i got an update. last night i took some time to get started on the plugs and wires and i think i got a goood start on it. i changed 7 out of the 8 plugs. heres my question. on plug number 2 on the passenger side, how do i get to it. its real tight back in there and the ac lines and are in the way. i didnt remove the alternator yet and i think when i remove it, i will gain enough room to change it with no problem. is that what you guys had to do? remember i still have stock manifolds so the room is even worse. well i need some help on that. i got the 7 plugs changed in about 2 and a half hours so that wasnt to bad at all i dont think. i wanted to change allt he plugs yesterday but that number 2 is hard to get to. pulling the wires doesnt look so bad either so i think i will be ok at that just take my time. also do i put dieelectric grease on the optispark ends of the wires? i know i use it on the plug boots that connect to the plugs but what about at the optispark? hopefully i will have this done soon. i wont have time till hopefully this weekend to work on it again. i have to change the number 2 plug, pull the alternator, pull stock wires, reroute wires with the otvc kit and hook it all up and put ita ll back together and i hope it fixes my problem. well hit me up and let me know some info on this number 2 plug. the one on the passenger side closest to the front of the car. its hidden right under the alternator and behind the power steeering pump and a/c compressor. theres hardly any room and its tight to get back there. thanks everyone.

 

Unbolt the alternator and you should have enough room for it. I don't think you need to put dielectric grease on the opti ends. Be sure to hook up the wires to the correct port on the opti.