i finally got it to crank. which it started up on the first try. oil pressure and everything looked good. and it ran good the first day but now im trying to get everything on it so i can adjust my rocker arms. it cut off on me last night and everytime i started it up it would shut right back off. this morning i tried to crank it and it sounded off like a shotgun. so my first guess was my opti had taken a dump on me as usual.(P.O.S.) I would have ran the datamaster on it but i dont know how to save the readings so i used my scan tool and my scanmaster. i got several trouble codes but not all at once. Here are all the ones that i got. It would run for a few seconds but very rough and then would start backfiring like hell. i have the plugs and wires right and no wires are burned. i got codes: DTC 33(MAP sensor,signal voltage high-low vaccum), DTC34(MAP sensor, signal voltage low-High vaccum), DTC 36(distributor ignition system), DTC 44(left O2 sensor lean), DTC 51(eeprom programming error). what gives it started and ran fine the first day and once it stopped its been running like hell every since. the left O2 voltage was really low like 259mv or so. can someone please help. im guessing its the optispark but dont wanna have to get one if thats not the problem cause im broke from working on this thing

 

Many seeming unrelated codes could be from a bad alternator. If the diodes are bad, it may be allowing too much AC to get on the output line. To check for AC, put your voltmeter on AC and check from the neg terminal of the battery to the output of the alternator. If it is over .03 VAC, replace the alternator.

The AC causes the PCM to go nuts. Just a shot.

Dave

 

ok ill give it a try. any other ideas? come on guys help me out i need this thing running asap.

 

ttt

 

Did you cut the dowel pin down on the cam? For some reason they come extra long from Comp. which will break an opti.

 

no i didnt know i was supposed to do that
any idea how much

 

Just so it matches the length of the stock cam... im sure somebody will know the measurements but for me it was not an exact science.

 

Checking the dowel pin length is the first thing mentioned on my cam install page. It's important to know.

 

ok ill check that tomorrow. how do i cut it down? and is it possible to do it with the cam already in the car?

 

No need to cut it, usually you can just gently tap it in further. Mine was between .600 and .650 from the face of the cam.

 

blown did you have to tap yours in some? is it real fragile?

 

it was the dang opti i can't win if im not replacing an opti im replacing the transmission. keep on imma be replacing the car

 

I tried tapping my dowel pin in and it didn't budge. I wasn't gonna get rough with it. I'd just cut it. The only thing is i wouldnt do it with the cam in the motor. I'm not sure if its possible but make sure you don't knock the freeze plug out of the back of the block trying to get the dowel pin to move. Then you'll be really pissed.

 

if i have to take the cam back out after all this i might as well go buy a truck and a for sale sign. it was a p.i.t.a. doing the whole swap. hardly anything went right and i finally got it all together and then the opti crapped out on me. im on my way of just saying the hell with it

 

I did have a thought IF the problem is that the opti pin is too long and you can't get it cut off or shoved backed in with out pulling the cam. Then i think you could take the opti and drill the hole that the pin goes in just a little deeper. Don't drill it any bigger that might throw off timing even though its bolted down, just drill it deeper. That way the pin won't bottom out and mess up the opti when tightened down. Its been over a year since i've had my opti off so i can't see any reason why that wouldn't work. It might not work but its worth a shot.