Sounds good. Im not particuarly new, i've been driving for 3 years so i can get a feel for things but i will definitally get someone to ride along.

Update: I called a shop thats in town here, the one that works on the sports cars and stuff, and i asked how much a manual cutout (they dont do electric cutouts) and a new cat would run. He said the cutout would run $25, new cat was about $80-$90, and 2 1/2 hours labor with cutting and welding would run me total about $350. Does this sound about right?

Should i get a cut out? i was just curious and wanted to know what it ran in price. Do you guys think i need it when im running stock exhaust?

Also, he recommended having it diagnosed for problems and i agreed. He said diagnosing runs about $78/hour. Is that a tad much??? I'm scanning my car tomorrow so I'll see what turns up there.

Thanks again guys, Im off to work till 7pm so sorry if i cant respond to any questions.

 

Your scanning is probably the same as his "diagnostics" and that sounds high to me for the exhaust work, but I have always paid low prices for that work.

$25-35 for a manual cutout INSTALLED. And while cats are not cheap, they are easy to replace. 2.5 hours is a good double what an experienced shop should need.

 

Check your plug wires. Mine burned a plug wire at the track once and it went from trapping 112 mph to about 90 in a matter of one pass.

 

Not b/c he's spinning most likely.. mostly due to being down on power.. all the way around.

 

I gotta say I agree with rechecking your plug wires. Also while you are at it make sure the plugs are gapped correctly. As for the exhaust, any reputable shop should be able to check the whole system for free. Find out if you have any major restrictions (i.e. clogged cat, collapsed muffler) before you just start throwing money at it. You don't need a cutout at the power levels you are at. I actually ran worse with my cutout open than I did with it capped. It sounded terrible to boot.

 

Just unhook the exaust from the cat and hollow it out. Its free and will free up a few horsepower as well.

 

Cheapest way to troubleshoot a bad catalytic converter.

 

[QUOTE=94 Camaro Z28;487a. It doesnt shift till its at about 6k rpms. And when it does shift into 3rd, it makes a funny "Whoosh" sound as if someone was letting all the air out of a ballon at once.


sounds like the cat . when you rev it up does it sound muffled and get quiet, almost silent? I bought a 90 camaro that ran fine until it was kicked the cat had came apart inside and lodged in the tail pipe.

 

I've tried this already, the bolts are rusted on. I used WD-40, and some other spray thats suppost to eat rust. The bolts just dont budge.

When i rev it, it has a nice growl to it, but like when im in second and around 5-6k, IIRC, I just hear straight motor.

 

MC Racing is pretty exspensive. They're big on Supras and Prochargers. If you want I'll give you my mechanics number. He's in Olathe, at 135th and I35. (Just S of I435) His name is Rusty, he owns Muscle Car Specialties and they specialize in LT1s. (His wife has a '94 Formula and he has a LT1 Firehawk.)

They fixed my clutch on my SS and installed my tires. Great guys. Shop rate is like right at $70/hr

 

Sounds good. Yeah, i thought MC sounded expensive. I just dont want to take it to a shop that works on hondas and station wagons all day.

 

Got the car scanned and nothing came up. It feels like its gettting worse the more i drive it. Im starting to think its the transmission now because 1st going into 2nd, it stayed around 5500rpm for a tad longer then im comfortable with and then shifted. Maybe the piston is cracked in the tranny and isnt holding pressure? God this is pissing me off.

 

Transmission was in the back of my mind.... hollow the cat, if that doesn't help I would start looking at the torque converter/transmission for the issue.

 

Matt came up to my work today and I took it around the block when I got off.

Matt the transmission feels fine. It shifts hard. It felt like the transmission didn't know when to downshift/shift, probably because of the loss in power. IDK I like manual transmissions. (read: I like replacing clutches )

We took it down a side street then on the highway for a bit. I noticed a lack in throttle response compared to my LT1's (I've owned a '94 Z28 A4, a '97 Camaro Z28 M6, and a '97 Camaro SS M6) When I got onto the highway I took it out of OD and put it in D to get the RPMS up. I'd let it downshift to 2nd and run up to around 6k then it seemed confused when to shift. I'm not sure what the rev limiter is on a 4L60E/LT1 but Matt said it liked to shift around 6k which seems too high to me for a stock motor. I let off and I could hear a little quick clunk (clunk-cla-clunk) and Matt seemed to think it was coming from his side of the car but it sounded like I could hear it right beside me as well. Could've been the sound bouncing off the highway divider. Matt said he noticed the rpms bouncing at idle. I'm not sure. We lined up after I gave him his car back and we tried to do a roll... I pulled a easy car and a half (bolt-on '97 SS M6, SLP2OTL, K&N, suspension, eldebrock shortys) but he said he got out of it because it didn't feel right.

I'll let him post up more. My bet goes towards the cat being clogged. It did not feel like it was missing to me.

Some Links for you Matt:
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...ht=clogged+cat
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=e...47qqgLQnYXWAw#

OReily's offers a Direct Fit Walker cat for $131 (Fbody Specific) or a Universial Walker cat for $95ish

Looks like the cats are expensivier than I thought.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Magna...QQcmdZViewItem

Also, yes.... GU5 = 3.23
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showp...76&postcount=2

 

Checking fuel pressure is so underrated...