Hi folks. The WS6 died again this morning on the way to work. I had to wait about ten minutes before it would crank again. The SES light is on, but I don't know if I'll have time to get it scanned before it goes off. Anyhow, I'm still thinking either the opti or the fuel pump. It did this regularly before so we changed the fuel filter and it behaved for a few weeks, but it started doing this again (randomly dying or not starting or stuttering). I know it could also be the plugs--which are way overdue for a change, but I'm so busy and BROKE right now that I can't really afford to throw away any money. I have paid for over half of a Delteq and opti setup (used but in great shape) that I just have to pony up the other half on to pick up. However, I know that I should also change the WP (which is leaking) to an elec. unit. So basically, I'd be doing an ignition system swap, a WP swap and a tune up...at minimum (oh yeah, and I've got an oil leak at the front seal which we may ignore for now---been doing it for years). The car has 147k on it. Any other possibilities? What all is necessary to do this swap? I've heard that I have to change the timing chain to change the WP, is this true?
Please advise,
B.J.

 

when it rains it pours lol. Same thing happen to me id have a mechanic look at it to pin down the exact culprit of your problems. mine died on the highway we thought it was the opti so i did the opti and wp and turned out it was a headgasket so i ended up doing the whole engine LOL. but to answer the one question i know. No you dont have to change the timing chain to do the WP most people say if your doing the opti might as well do the timing chain well your in there but if you start doing that you could go on for days replacing everything.

 

Woe there. Your talking about what sounds like a heat soaking issue and you want to replace everything??? That's a pretty lofty way of finding the problem. Kind of like throwing bricks at a house to try to find a window.

Obviously the water and oil problem HAVE to be dealt with, but I doubt they are and issue if the car consistantly starts when cold and cuts out after it gets hot. First off, understanding the DTC could point you in the correct direction and should always be dealt with first. Scan it to see what it is. Keep in mind that Autozone can only scan 96 or newer vehicles.

A thorough check of the wiring for the ignition system and all grounds is a basic inspection to be made before anything else. Disconnect all the connectors you can, inspect the pins as well as the wires for damage and reconnect.

If that is a dead end, fuel pumps can and many times do cut out irradically. The first thing you should be looking at with a fuel pressure gage taped to the windshield, is the fuel pressure when this occurs. Don't concentrate on where the level is when it's running good but rather if it drops off when the problem STARTS to occur.

The next thing to look at is the ignition system if you don't have a fuel pump issue. There are 2 major components (other than the PCM) involved here. The ICM and the coil. These can breakdown from heat and begin to give ignition problems. To test them for thermal problems, break out your trusty hair dryer. When the engine is dead cold, start it up for just a few seconds to be sure it is running ok and then shut it down. Now take the hair dryer and warm one item, say for example the ICM, at a time. Warm it just to the point of not being able to touch it. Do NOT heat anything else at the same time. Now quickly start the car while the device is hot and see if it starts or if it runs bad. If that device didn't show the problem move to the next one, in this case the coil. Do the same thing with the dryer and then quickly try to start it.