The head doesn't need to be on a car. It's just for the purpose of making sure the slip-fit primary flange is lined up with the other flange and will bolt up on install.

 

Right, I understand that. But I don't have an LT1 head lying around either.

 

BTW, I called Thermal Tech Coatings, and they seem very knowledgable about coatings. I may actually give them a try. If I do, I will update this thread.

They have a turn around of 7-10 days. What is cool is that they are only 3 hours away from me, so shipping time is 1 day and around $13

 

doesn't need to be a lt1 head. i'm pretty sure the header will bolt up to any sbc head. if not then it may have to be a d-port head. it's a must or else you could have header flange leaks that you won't be able to get rid of which can blow out your gasket in a matter of a minute. what you may be able to do is bolt it up to your car, tack weld a spot, take it off and then you may be money.

 

I would think it needs to be a d-port head. I haven't decided if I want to weld that up yet. I may leave it as is. Another challenge is finding a box that measures 40 x 20 x 20

 

ANY SBC head works, I used an old iron head. It is just to be make sure the flange is on the head surface so it stays flat when welded. Heck, a block of wood would work if you wanted to drill the holes and bolt the headers down on that....

 

That does sound like a good idea. I may do that if I decide to weld that slip joint.

The headers are sitting here in the office floor at work. Everyone is asking about them!

 

Did you have to grind off the coating 1st or did you weld it straight up?

-B

 

On mine, that slip joint is completed rusted, so I wouldn't have to grind off any coating. I think the weld would burn off coating anyway.