Cam and valvetrain break-in/common practices
Cam and valvetrain break-in/common practices
I did a search and saw that there is no need for a break-in period for a new cam for the LT1. thats fine, and i can accept that as i dont know much about them and the reasoning made sense. however i was just wondering what you guys did when you installed a new cam and valvetrain. some people i hear go right out and abuse it, others i hear drive it and change the oil frequently. im just looking for little tips i suppose on what to do as this is something new to me.
thanks!
brian
thanks!
brian
Roller cams really don't require much of a break as does a completely rebuilt engine or as aflat tappet cam install.
To be on the safe side you can change the oil to 40w. When you start the engine keep the RPMs at varing RPMs but above 2k to ensure adequate oil pressure/lubrication. You can do this for 5-10 minutes. Change the oil and filter after a few hundred miles.
To be on the safe side you can change the oil to 40w. When you start the engine keep the RPMs at varing RPMs but above 2k to ensure adequate oil pressure/lubrication. You can do this for 5-10 minutes. Change the oil and filter after a few hundred miles.
Originally posted by sleeperZ96BT
why the switch to 40W oil?? anyone else with cam break in/advice?
brian
why the switch to 40W oil?? anyone else with cam break in/advice?
brian
I've never heard of anyone one recommending a multivisc oil for break in.
thanks don! i was going to use 10W30 dino oil then change it to 10W30 royal purple synthetic at 500 miles after an oil change or two. now it appears i should use a 10W40 for each if i understand correctly. am i correct don?
thanks for your help!
brian
thanks for your help!
brian
Removing the inner sping allows the cam to brake in at lower sping pressures. With out the high pressures associated with both springs there is less chance of scoring the cam at start up.
Is it necessary? How much is your engine worth?
Is it necessary? How much is your engine worth?
The Comp Cam info is at least fifteen years old - they talk about SF ratings on the oil. We are now at SL.
Also their info is for flat tappet cams, and our roller cams, regardless of spring pressure, require no break-in.
Multi-viscosity is an incorrect term used in place of "multi-grade", the correct term. All oils are "multi-viscosity" depending on the temperature they are measured at.
I would recommend using 5W-30 or 10W-30 and be done with it.
Also their info is for flat tappet cams, and our roller cams, regardless of spring pressure, require no break-in.
Multi-viscosity is an incorrect term used in place of "multi-grade", the correct term. All oils are "multi-viscosity" depending on the temperature they are measured at.
I would recommend using 5W-30 or 10W-30 and be done with it.
Originally posted by sleeperZ96BT
thanks don! i was going to use 10W30 dino oil then change it to 10W30 royal purple synthetic at 500 miles after an oil change or two. now it appears i should use a 10W40 for each if i understand correctly. am i correct don?
thanks for your help!
brian
thanks don! i was going to use 10W30 dino oil then change it to 10W30 royal purple synthetic at 500 miles after an oil change or two. now it appears i should use a 10W40 for each if i understand correctly. am i correct don?
thanks for your help!
brian
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can anyone help me out?