WS6 thanks for the input. Problem I have is IF the crank is usable there are not any competent people here in Germany that can polish the crank and so forth. They tear our engines up all the time over so we basically just either do w/out or purchase from the states $$$$! I can't spend any money on this thing whatsoever. If I can find a used LT1 block locally I'll be ok and swap everything over but anything aside from that forget it.

Hopefully when tear down is complete I'll see how bad the damage really is. If it just requires bearings then fine I'll rebuild the 396 but if not it's a paper weight at best.

Thanks again!

 

Its all about the combo of parts you pick. No doubt with stock heads i could go faster with a less agressive cam. Same thing when i was running 4.33 gears with the stock cam. I would have been faster with 373s or 410s becuase the 4.33s kept me out of my ideal powerband.

However, in the end once i get the car "complete" hopefully all the components will fall together and work in unison with each other and should put me in some mid-high 11s NA on the stock block.

Also tuning has a ton to do with it. I picked up 2.5 mph yesterday with about 2 hours of track time tuning. First time out, still have tons of issues, but if you are good at tuning, you can make serious power with tweaking the tune. Maybe some of the cammed cars you are referring to are untuned, and the bolt on cars are in perfect tune.

 

how would it put you OUT of your powerband?
gears wont cause you to over rev

Puttin you in the wrong gear will (ie, it would suck to use 4th in an auto on the drag strip )

 

Lets make this real basic.


lets say stock cam makes peak TQ at 3k rpm

With a higher gear (lower numerical) you will spend more time at a rpm range. With a lower gear, you will rev past the peak numbers more quickly, spending less time at peak TQ and HP.

Thats pretty much why you are better off with the 342s in an auto and stock cam, yet 373 are a better choice for cammed car. Peak power moves up, so you want the bigger gears to get you running in the powerband as long as possible.

 

I agree with that, within your powerband is an area that produces the best numbers, and you really want to stay in that range as much as possible, so that every shift starts right at the best numbers. I remember reading an article where they did testing with different combos to stay right in the band and the higher gear was not always the best although they played other factors into it such as drivability and such

 

I will be running a solid roller 244/244 dur and .611/.611 lift on a 112lsa on a stock lt1 shortblock....i think you will be fine

 

Damn straight he will. I ran a solid roller too, 242/248 585/586 and it was nice.

 

Here's some pics of the carnage. Just in case anyone was wondering.

http://community.webshots.com/album/80718531qroaVe?1

 

LOL damn that is crazy. Where did those screws come from?

 

uhh..... where did the bolt come from ???
there did'nt appear to be a hole in the piston, so your car must have eaten it !!

anyway imho: a smaller cam and decent heads is a much more drivable combo. THE POWER IS IN THE HEADS not the cam

 

someone tossed a screw in your motor!?

 

Don't know where the screw came from. Every bolt on the car is accounted for. No rip in my Holley filter nothing missing from the ram air box.....NOTHING! So your guess is as good as mine.

 

sideways
something is wrong if a 306 doesn't make peak even @ 6800!!!


even on a stock bottom end with nice heads it should peak at 6300 or so

 

Is that the GM 847 (I don't know if that's the right number, but the duration sounds like one of the performance GM grinds.)