LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Cam Swap underway!

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Old Sep 25, 2007 | 04:09 AM
  #16  
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From: Jackstandican
Originally Posted by 2QUIK6
Had on of the cam sprocket bolts that was very difficult to get to thread in and was rather tight, took several tries screwing and unscrewing to get it to go all the way in...just what I need is a stripped thread there and have to buy a whole new cam but it finally went in and has plenty of thread locker on it now.
Hopefully that won't come back in a few hundred miles and bite you in the ***. That could leave some expensive teeth marks if you get my drift. I thought you said you were taking your time on this? Putting loc-tite on what may be a stripped bolt or bolt hole is hardly taking your time.
Old Sep 25, 2007 | 08:49 AM
  #17  
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From: Ft. Worth, TX
Originally Posted by SS RRR
Hopefully that won't come back in a few hundred miles and bite you in the ***. That could leave some expensive teeth marks if you get my drift. I thought you said you were taking your time on this? Putting loc-tite on what may be a stripped bolt or bolt hole is hardly taking your time.
Not stripped at all, had to run a thread chaser thru a couple of times which cleaned out the threads, and of course with that removed a very miniscule amount of thread. It torqued down fine but you could tell the first few threads were a little looser than the others so obviously gonna use a little locktite on them.
Old Sep 28, 2007 | 03:33 PM
  #18  
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Just about got it all together, got the valve train together yesterday, got the oil pump all primed and intake back on.
Hooking up wires today and the spark plugs, radiator, etc.
Hopefully have it started by early tomorrow depending on how much time I have tonight.
Old Sep 30, 2007 | 09:19 AM
  #19  
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yeah post a vid we wana hear it!
Old Sep 30, 2007 | 09:26 AM
  #20  
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From: Ft. Worth, TX
Originally Posted by klrz28
yeah post a vid we wana hear it!
I will once I get it all running smoothly...hit a little snag.
Got it all together but can't seem to get the valve train chatter out of it. Lifters don't seem to be holding any pressure....already did 3/8 and 5/8 turn of pre-load....about to tear off the vc again and do a full turn...if that doesn't work the intake coming back off and the stock lifters going back in. These were the new Caddy racing lifters. Chatter is so bad the knock counts are going non-stop...its loud.
This cam really shouldn't sound much different than stock at idle.
Old Sep 30, 2007 | 09:27 AM
  #21  
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thats odd i have a soild roller cam and my computer doesnt really pick up much for knock. maybe try installing the lt4 knock module..
Old Sep 30, 2007 | 09:33 AM
  #22  
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From: Ft. Worth, TX
Originally Posted by klrz28
thats odd i have a soild roller cam and my computer doesnt really pick up much for knock. maybe try installing the lt4 knock module..
No I definitely have some sort of problem with something in the valve train, I have the same cam with the same Comp pro mag rockers in my truck and its as quiet as a stocker with the stock lifters. Lifters just don't seem to be pumping up hard.
Old Sep 30, 2007 | 09:48 AM
  #23  
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Some have noted that the Caddy lifters may require different length pushrods, because the depth of the plunger insided is slightly different from a stock lifter. The outside dimensions are the same. That may not help with your pumping up issue, but thought I would throw that out, if you did not know.
Old Sep 30, 2007 | 09:52 AM
  #24  
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Is it a good idea to use an old lifter on a new cam, I always heard that a new cam should get a new set of lifters.
Also maybe they send you the wrong length push rods.
Old Sep 30, 2007 | 09:54 AM
  #25  
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also you are suppose to use a solid lifter to get correct pushrod length..or use the lifter collapsed..
Old Sep 30, 2007 | 11:41 AM
  #26  
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Yes, I was the one who noticed the Caddy lifters have the cup sitting deeper, .05". I did make a solid lifter out of one of my spare Caddy lifters to measure the pr length, came out to be 7.15" and I used a digital caliper to verify they were the correct length after I got them.

Also, yesterday when I readjusted to 5/8 turn preload, I removed all the rockers and colored the end of the valve stem with a sharpie before reinstalling and taking for a drive, just to double check that the length wasn't an issue after I had measured using the solid lifter and sharpie technique last week. So far all of the contact spots on the driver side were right on center so I'm certain thats not the issue....going to do pass side now.

Also, I just ran the car with the valve covers off and all the prs have oil coming up thru them so thats good. I listened to each rocker with a stephoscope and there are a few making some louder ticks than the others but all had the same exact preload....going with 7/8 turn this time, so far the driver side seems quieter with that, but it seems they get louder after a drive around the block.
Old Sep 30, 2007 | 11:58 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by damastertechjj
Is it a good idea to use an old lifter on a new cam, I always heard that a new cam should get a new set of lifters.
Unlike the old flat tappet lifters, roller lifter don't need to be matched to a cam/cam lobes.
Old Sep 30, 2007 | 04:32 PM
  #28  
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Per my other post, a full turn made no difference, so then I removed the rockers and installed lash caps on the valve stems, the keepers were already recessed for caps and these heads had lash caps on them when I got them because of the springs/retainers used.
Also swapped out pushrods to some that are 0.15" longer since the lash caps are .12" added height.
Now its much quieter idling in the garage...maybe go drive it after I rest some I'm tired after pulling the covers 2 or 3 times today I lost count...
Old Oct 1, 2007 | 09:43 PM
  #29  
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They are still making more chatter than my truck does, but they are no longer setting off the knock sensor!
For now I'm done, but I may at some point go back and swap in the stock lifters... Now its on to tuning.....reflashed the PCM 4 times today, about got the BLMs right on 128 now...more driving will tell. Timing was easy, just set it to what my truck is for now Idles like stock, really not much to get a sound clip of, just the Aerochamber muff sound. Definitely lights the tires up easy now
Oh, also removed the Holley 58mm TB and but the stocker back on, no need for that and I'm fed up with the thing not returning 100% back to the stop screw..POS even though it is made in the USA...I think China could have done just as poor of a job

Last edited by 2QUIK6; Oct 1, 2007 at 09:45 PM.
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