Cam sensor for LT1 using coil packs!
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 1998
Posts: 125
From: South TX,USA
Cam sensor for LT1 using coil packs!
Well guys I said it could be done, and here it is...
Opti cam sensor
Opti cam sensor 2
Cam sensor plate
Backside of cam sensor plate
Cam sensor shaft
I used the existing opti, milled down the legs for the bearing retainer plate which is now built into the aluminum plate, turned a billet piece of aluminum to fit perfectly inside the housing and drilled and tapped it for a pickup sensor. Then I sacrificed a distributor that the sensor came out of and cut the shaft off that held the pickup, trued it up on the lathe leaving a dowel that fit directly inside the existing untouched Opti shaft which centered and trued it, then I tig welded them together.
The plate is fully adjustable 360 degs. And is held in place by a set screw that just holds the plate from turning until you get the billet aluminum cover on that clamps it firmly down into place. (I'm in the process of making it) I will update this page with more pictures when its done.
For those of you that don't know, this setup is for aftermarket sequential engine management systems such as the F.A.S.T. system like I am using. you will no longer have any use of the opti except for the cam sensor itself, which means you will have to use individual coil packs and somehting like the E-dist from FAST, or the MSD CPC system. I know this is not for everybody, but seeing as how so many people are ditching the Opticrap now I thought I would share this with you. There are alternate ways of doing cam sensors, but they involve allot of machining inside and on the timing cover and timing set, or the intake manifold if your using the dist. plug from MSD. (if you can get one). My way requires no modding to the engine itself, is fully adjustable from the outside, and can very easily be removed if needed.
Randy
www.attituderacing.com
Opti cam sensor
Opti cam sensor 2
Cam sensor plate
Backside of cam sensor plate
Cam sensor shaft
I used the existing opti, milled down the legs for the bearing retainer plate which is now built into the aluminum plate, turned a billet piece of aluminum to fit perfectly inside the housing and drilled and tapped it for a pickup sensor. Then I sacrificed a distributor that the sensor came out of and cut the shaft off that held the pickup, trued it up on the lathe leaving a dowel that fit directly inside the existing untouched Opti shaft which centered and trued it, then I tig welded them together.
The plate is fully adjustable 360 degs. And is held in place by a set screw that just holds the plate from turning until you get the billet aluminum cover on that clamps it firmly down into place. (I'm in the process of making it) I will update this page with more pictures when its done.
For those of you that don't know, this setup is for aftermarket sequential engine management systems such as the F.A.S.T. system like I am using. you will no longer have any use of the opti except for the cam sensor itself, which means you will have to use individual coil packs and somehting like the E-dist from FAST, or the MSD CPC system. I know this is not for everybody, but seeing as how so many people are ditching the Opticrap now I thought I would share this with you. There are alternate ways of doing cam sensors, but they involve allot of machining inside and on the timing cover and timing set, or the intake manifold if your using the dist. plug from MSD. (if you can get one). My way requires no modding to the engine itself, is fully adjustable from the outside, and can very easily be removed if needed.
Randy
www.attituderacing.com
Last edited by Mochanic; May 17, 2005 at 03:05 AM.
Now start making them for the rest of us schmucks.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 1998
Posts: 125
From: South TX,USA
Thanks!
Yeah, its really vented for now, LOL the billet cover is not finished yet.
Not sure what the LTCC is looking for, but I'm sure it will... this sensor puts outs a voltage when the rotating head passes the magnetic pickup. This setup can have any other type of sensor you wish mounted to it to suit your needs, but I don't think thats necessary for any system.
Randy
Yeah, its really vented for now, LOL the billet cover is not finished yet.Not sure what the LTCC is looking for, but I'm sure it will... this sensor puts outs a voltage when the rotating head passes the magnetic pickup. This setup can have any other type of sensor you wish mounted to it to suit your needs, but I don't think thats necessary for any system.
Randy
Last edited by Mochanic; May 17, 2005 at 03:10 AM.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 1998
Posts: 125
From: South TX,USA
Mass production...
I can't even keep up with the work I have now (building 10sec. Honda's... no, not riced out!!!)
If I did have the time, I would put it towards my own turbocharged 383 project.
If any of you are very serious about it, and need it soon, let me know. You will have to send me an Opticrap to modify though.
I asked around a few months ago for dead opti's, and never got any... makes me wonder what happens to all those "dead" ones out there.
Besides, now that everybody is seeing my ideas AGAIN, I'm sure it won't be long before others start making them to sell.
Randy
I can't even keep up with the work I have now (building 10sec. Honda's... no, not riced out!!!)
If I did have the time, I would put it towards my own turbocharged 383 project.
If any of you are very serious about it, and need it soon, let me know. You will have to send me an Opticrap to modify though.
I asked around a few months ago for dead opti's, and never got any... makes me wonder what happens to all those "dead" ones out there.
Besides, now that everybody is seeing my ideas AGAIN, I'm sure it won't be long before others start making them to sell.
Randy
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 360
From: Montpelier, VA USA
I have a dead one pulled from a friends car, its just sitting there right now. i wanted to look inside to see whats in there incase i have to rebuild mine sometime. 93k on it right now. Old style though
What you have there is very nice, bolts onto the exact spot the old housing did? Is there any cover for the outside so things won't hit it? Don't suppose anything would but maybe i drop a wrench down there.. haha I dunno.
What you have there is very nice, bolts onto the exact spot the old housing did? Is there any cover for the outside so things won't hit it? Don't suppose anything would but maybe i drop a wrench down there.. haha I dunno.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 1998
Posts: 125
From: South TX,USA
yes, I'm working on a billet cover thats simply bolts up to the existing holes in the opti body... I'm thinking about making the top cover seperate so you can make adjustments without removing the entire outter cover, and of course having it Laser etched with a cool design!
Just wondering, what is the LTCC looking for? I'm sure I can get it to work, I will most likely have to use a different sensor or 2, but anything is possible with enough will power and the right tools! (not that I will be using an LTCC, I'm going with the E Dist box, and a sequential engine management unit from FAST along with an MSD crank trigger, but for those on a budget, I may be willing to work it out for them)
Randy
Just wondering, what is the LTCC looking for? I'm sure I can get it to work, I will most likely have to use a different sensor or 2, but anything is possible with enough will power and the right tools! (not that I will be using an LTCC, I'm going with the E Dist box, and a sequential engine management unit from FAST along with an MSD crank trigger, but for those on a budget, I may be willing to work it out for them)
Randy
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Joined: Nov 1998
Posts: 71,094
From: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
The LTCC is looking for the low resolution pulse pattern.
The stock Opti low resolution pulse actually carries a unique signature for each of the 8 cylinders (well, actually for 4 of the cylinders, alternating with non-unique rotational angle signature for the other 4)... there is no guessing where the other 7 cylinders are, waiting for the single cylinder you are measuring to come around again. Those of us who have been using the optical section of the Opti only, driving systems like the MoTeC which can use the low res pattern to drive 8 coils directly have been running as long as 4 years with no problems... and these are engines routinely running over 7,000rpm. Baxter used the Opti, MoTeC and 8 LS1 coils on his 1,125HP 9.04-second 3,900# 30th SS convertible for nearly 4 years, and that was an 8,000rpm engine. "0" problems.
The stock Opti low resolution pulse actually carries a unique signature for each of the 8 cylinders (well, actually for 4 of the cylinders, alternating with non-unique rotational angle signature for the other 4)... there is no guessing where the other 7 cylinders are, waiting for the single cylinder you are measuring to come around again. Those of us who have been using the optical section of the Opti only, driving systems like the MoTeC which can use the low res pattern to drive 8 coils directly have been running as long as 4 years with no problems... and these are engines routinely running over 7,000rpm. Baxter used the Opti, MoTeC and 8 LS1 coils on his 1,125HP 9.04-second 3,900# 30th SS convertible for nearly 4 years, and that was an 8,000rpm engine. "0" problems.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 1998
Posts: 125
From: South TX,USA
Hmm...
Sounds like more than I have time to get into for now. I can always put a pickup wheel on the shaft that has 8 points to it so that each of them is TDC for each different cylinder, but then you have the low res signal to convert or modify to.
I might be more interested if I were actually going to use an LTCC, but since I'm going with the FAST E-Dist box and a much more affordable FAST sequential unit (compared to the Motec unit), I don't have to worry about it. I can't wait to see how this project turns out! Having 1000rwhp to the tire in a 3000# car with a powerglide should hopefully be good for mid 8's... not bad for a street car huh?
Sounds like more than I have time to get into for now. I can always put a pickup wheel on the shaft that has 8 points to it so that each of them is TDC for each different cylinder, but then you have the low res signal to convert or modify to.
I might be more interested if I were actually going to use an LTCC, but since I'm going with the FAST E-Dist box and a much more affordable FAST sequential unit (compared to the Motec unit), I don't have to worry about it. I can't wait to see how this project turns out! Having 1000rwhp to the tire in a 3000# car with a powerglide should hopefully be good for mid 8's... not bad for a street car huh?
Administrator
Joined: Nov 1998
Posts: 71,094
From: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Should be very "quick"... Baxter just dyno'd his new setup, and its well over 1,000HP at the rear wheels, but he is limited to no less than 3,450# race weight by the PRO/Edelbrock Xtreme Street rules. He is still using the MoTeC, but since he went to the Dart Iron Eagle Gen 1 SBC, he's using a pickup on the timing cover/gear.... similar to your concept.
