Cam question: not for the faint of heart
Cam question: not for the faint of heart
Ok, this may be a little wierd, so let me start by giving a background.
My car is a 95 TA. It is very modded as far as bolt ons go. I think that I have them all. Two years ago I went deeper and did some head work that turned out very well. I did a mild intake and exhaust port with bowl work and bigger valves 2.00/1.56. I added 1.6 rockers and Comp dual 1.44 springs to the mix. FLP longtubes were bolted on and the combo yeilded 343 RWHP/ 356 RWTRQ. The longbolck is stock with moderately high miles (122K) but is in very good condition. I have always kept the very best synthetic oil and changed it early. This combo makes power all the way to 6000rpm on a stock cam. It made enough power to rip up the stock clutch (replaced with a street twin) and the rear (replaced with a 3.90 geared Moser 12).
The street twin and 12 bolt added alot to the mass of the driveline and slowed the car down some. I want to get it back and then some. I know the heads are not even close to being pushed for flow with the stock cam. I want to cam up, but just a little bit.
So, here is the task:
1. I want the sound of the car to remain the same ie. smooth idle with no give away cam surge (think sleeper).
2. I don't want to beat my head in with tuning issues.
3. I want to push the heads a little without making the car into a high rpm strip only warrior (think street drivability).
What I am thinking is a cam with about 10 more degrees on both the intake and the exhaust ie 212/218 and about .550 lift. The key for tunability and drivability would be a 116 degree seperation.
Something like the CC 304 (Comp Cams "304" LT1 Camshaft, 210 / 220, .500 / .510 114 LSA, Mild cam, great for daily drivers or emissions sensitive applications. Will work with stock computer tuning.) but on a 116.
What I see people doing all the time is putting a huge cam in a stock engine to try to make up for stock heads. Can I put a small cam in decent heads and make a significant jump in power? I want to see about 50rwhp increase.
Have any of you tried this?
BBB
My car is a 95 TA. It is very modded as far as bolt ons go. I think that I have them all. Two years ago I went deeper and did some head work that turned out very well. I did a mild intake and exhaust port with bowl work and bigger valves 2.00/1.56. I added 1.6 rockers and Comp dual 1.44 springs to the mix. FLP longtubes were bolted on and the combo yeilded 343 RWHP/ 356 RWTRQ. The longbolck is stock with moderately high miles (122K) but is in very good condition. I have always kept the very best synthetic oil and changed it early. This combo makes power all the way to 6000rpm on a stock cam. It made enough power to rip up the stock clutch (replaced with a street twin) and the rear (replaced with a 3.90 geared Moser 12).
The street twin and 12 bolt added alot to the mass of the driveline and slowed the car down some. I want to get it back and then some. I know the heads are not even close to being pushed for flow with the stock cam. I want to cam up, but just a little bit.
So, here is the task:
1. I want the sound of the car to remain the same ie. smooth idle with no give away cam surge (think sleeper).
2. I don't want to beat my head in with tuning issues.
3. I want to push the heads a little without making the car into a high rpm strip only warrior (think street drivability).
What I am thinking is a cam with about 10 more degrees on both the intake and the exhaust ie 212/218 and about .550 lift. The key for tunability and drivability would be a 116 degree seperation.
Something like the CC 304 (Comp Cams "304" LT1 Camshaft, 210 / 220, .500 / .510 114 LSA, Mild cam, great for daily drivers or emissions sensitive applications. Will work with stock computer tuning.) but on a 116.
What I see people doing all the time is putting a huge cam in a stock engine to try to make up for stock heads. Can I put a small cam in decent heads and make a significant jump in power? I want to see about 50rwhp increase.
Have any of you tried this?
BBB
Re: Cam question: not for the faint of heart
I would discourage that wide a LSA try the 227 cam or maybe the ZZ3, or a custom grind near those duration specs at more suitable lift, you will be better off with a little less duration and a 112 lsa and that wide a LSA. There were some lengthy threads on this some time ago and there is more to it than just LSA but it is a useful number the stock cams 117 was admitted by almost all involved to be much wider than ideal. In carbed application 106-108 is more common and the 112 so common in the injection grinds is already a compromise. A b-body guy tried 222 or so intake and a 116 and it idled stock but performed no better on or of juice than his previous smaller 845 cam.
I have a ZZ3 cam in my Caprice and guys that know about it say she sounds stock it is mellow enough that I drove it with 1650 stall and 2.93s in the heavier Caprice for quite some time even with light towing involved. With stock heads a 2800 stall and stock manifolds I could take most LS1s to the 1/8th on my street tires that was with the 2.93s no less now I have 3.42s and other goodies on the way. Little cams are way underappreciated.
I have a ZZ3 cam in my Caprice and guys that know about it say she sounds stock it is mellow enough that I drove it with 1650 stall and 2.93s in the heavier Caprice for quite some time even with light towing involved. With stock heads a 2800 stall and stock manifolds I could take most LS1s to the 1/8th on my street tires that was with the 2.93s no less now I have 3.42s and other goodies on the way. Little cams are way underappreciated.
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