Alright, I have made the decision to install an LT4 Hot Cam kit this winter, and now just had some questions on what all I will need. For those who don't know, the kit includes the cam, self aligning roller rockers, springs, valve caps, and valve shims.

1. What gaskets will I need and what kind are best?

2. Car has 65,000 mi, do I need / should I get a new timing chain?

3. Can / should I reuse the stock lifters?

4. Kit has self aligning rockers, should I still upgrade to hardened push rods?

5. I have seen people ask if they need "seals". What seals are they talking about and do I need them?

6. To install the cam, should I pull the engine or install it in the car? Which is easier and which takes more time?

7. What "special tools" will I need?

8. Anything else I will need and missed?

Basically I am pretty new to valve trains and want to make sure that I have everything that I need to do this. As far as component recommendations, I am a college student so I would like to keep the price down as much as possible while still getting quality parts. Thanks for the help. I really appreciate it!

 

1. intake gasket at the least
2. you wont regret a new, better, timing chain
6. it can be done in the car

check out shoebox's howto's found here: http://shbox.com/1/how_tos.html

you should find answers a lot of your questions there

 

1. I beleive combination motorsports sells a cam install gasket kit, including the timing cover gasket, intake manifold gaskets and other things you might need. It's under 20$ or so if I remember correctly.

2. The general consensus is you should get at least a stock replacement chain, since your current chain may have some slack with all the miles on it. Upgrade to a stronger one later like the LT4 ED, or now if you're not tight on cash and are upgrading to vented opti (if you're a pre-95).

3. With only 65,000 miles I guess reusing the stock lifters is an option, but most wouldn't recommend it. You can get a set of comp stock replacements or comp R's for around 200$ I beleive. Just make sure you get the right ones (read the sticky thread about comp R lifter failure).

5. The seals I beleive you're referring to are the valve stem seals. When I swapped the cam I went ahead and replaced them.

6. You can do it with the engine in the car.

 

You said to get a "better" timing chain. What options are there other than the LT4, and how much $$$ am I looking at. As far as the lifters are concerned, I was hoping to not have to replace them, but I definitely will if it is a bad idea not to. What are the negatives of not replacing them and the benefits of putting in new ones (again, new to valve train details so sorry if this is "common knowledge").

 

Any body else have any advice here? I could really use the input. Any advice on the push rods too?

 

Being as you're on a budget just leave the pushrods they'll be fine, the lifters can be reused as long as there is no scoring or discoloring on them(I reused mine at 80K), valveseals I didn't change either if you aren't burning oil just leavem, at least put a new stock timing chain in and change gaskets

Tools needed will be a valvespring compressor and air hose adaptor to put air into cylinders to hold valves up when doing the spring swap, deep E4 reverse torx socket to open the opti and T10 torx to remove rotor if needed, puller for the crank hub and crank timing gear, lots of patience

Have fun and make sure you read up on how to do things before you run into trouble

 

Thanks for the input. It is greatly appreciated.

 

With the self-aligning rockers you "do not" use hardened pushrods w/ guides. It's one, or the other but not both. With 60K you should replace the timing chain and gears, it will be worn and cause retard. Check the rollers on each of the lifters, they should be OK to reuse. Remember, you must remove the oil pump drive gear to remove the cam.

The more difficult reassembly part will be reinstalling the timing chain cover. Here are some do's and dont's. Loosen as many front pan bolts as possible and protect the pan arch gasket when you remove the cover, as you will reuse it. Do not install the water pump drive shaft seal until the cover has been reinstalled, to prevent damage to the seal during installation. This seal is easly damaged. The crank and Opi seals can be installed before the cover is installed. Also, after the cover is installed you must be very careful when installing the water pump shaft seal, not to damage it. I believe they make an installation tool to prevent the seal catching on the shaft lip. Also, it may take two people to install the cover. One pushing down to compress the arch gasket and the other installing the bolts. Use high-quality RTV on the arch gasket to reseal it.

Don't forget to reinstall the oil pump drive gear! Your valve springs must be able to handle the Hot Cam .525 lift. Also, you'll need a PCM retune with the Hot Cam for it to work correctly. Bryan at PCMforLess does great work. PM me if you have more questions.

 

Wow, that was helpful. Thanks a lot Engineer!