Cam install update #2 w/fugly plug pic
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,406
From: Downey, CA
Cam install update #2 w/fugly plug pic
Here is the picture of the fugly plug: Plug Pic
After seeing this I can see why the Bosch +4 plugs may not be so
good. Too much area for stuff to stick too. Although the car was
running fine, it would not have been much longer before #8 would
have started to miss. All the other plugs looked OK. I am hoping
that new valve stem seals will take care of this.
Now for the day four questions:
Q1) How critical is the alignment of the crank hub? I marked it as
best I can but can see that the accuracy is maybe 5-10 degrees.
Q2) What is the correct length of stud to use as a guide when
installing the intake? I need to buy or make some.
Q3) What is the best RTV to use on the front and back of the intake?
I have regular black and the high temp red stuff.
Q4) Is a re-torque of the intake necessary (after like 24 hours)?
Some of my intake bolts seemed a bit loose during the removal.
Q5) My optispark has 30,000 miles on it and I also have a new one
in the box. Should I install the old one or the new one?
I finally did a mock up of the valvesprings. The Comp 26915 springs
will work but I need to go with the +.050 super locks and will end
up with an installed height of 1.77". I had to order different retainers
to go with the super locks (which I had), so the springs can't go in
until Saturday. With regular locks the height was 1.72" so I definately
need the +.050".
I now wish I would have planned to pull the heads and do a simple
port matching job. It would have been nice to clean up those ports
but I just don't have the time now.
After seeing this I can see why the Bosch +4 plugs may not be so
good. Too much area for stuff to stick too. Although the car was
running fine, it would not have been much longer before #8 would
have started to miss. All the other plugs looked OK. I am hoping
that new valve stem seals will take care of this.
Now for the day four questions:
Q1) How critical is the alignment of the crank hub? I marked it as
best I can but can see that the accuracy is maybe 5-10 degrees.
Q2) What is the correct length of stud to use as a guide when
installing the intake? I need to buy or make some.
Q3) What is the best RTV to use on the front and back of the intake?
I have regular black and the high temp red stuff.
Q4) Is a re-torque of the intake necessary (after like 24 hours)?
Some of my intake bolts seemed a bit loose during the removal.
Q5) My optispark has 30,000 miles on it and I also have a new one
in the box. Should I install the old one or the new one?
I finally did a mock up of the valvesprings. The Comp 26915 springs
will work but I need to go with the +.050 super locks and will end
up with an installed height of 1.77". I had to order different retainers
to go with the super locks (which I had), so the springs can't go in
until Saturday. With regular locks the height was 1.72" so I definately
need the +.050".
I now wish I would have planned to pull the heads and do a simple
port matching job. It would have been nice to clean up those ports
but I just don't have the time now.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 840
From: Midland,Mi
hey... My plugs get nasty and foul out all the time after the cam change after about 20 minutes of run time.. Also the left bank O2's would not swing... Then I think Neither bank would...
The only code I was getting was injector circut
The only code I was getting was injector circut
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,781
From: Detroit area
Crank hub isnt that critical.You should be able to get it close.I used a couple old drill bits to align the intake,just so you dont slide it forward and rearwards a lot.Use high temp copper RTV.The opti is up to you.
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