Look man here the deal hook your compression guage get a friend have them work the switch why you do the guage and tighten till you get the highest you can get on the guage, if you get less than 150 you might have problems.

 

Umm....that took me 30 mintues to decipher

-B

 

I have a very similar set up and am having some of the same problems. Am very interested in hearing more suggestions. 236/242 cam on a 114 lsa , Comp R lifters, pro mag 1.6 but I went with 7.000" pushrods, new opti, MADZ28 tune and I'm also throwing a MAF code and mine also wont idle worth a damn and back fires and pops when I get on the gas below 2k and then its like a switch has come on and I get power back.

Not trying to steal your post man just looking for the same answers you are.

I will give you this advice though. I know its hard to do it with the motor in the car but if you want to check to see if you have the right pushrod length have someone turn the motor over by hand and watch the rocker arm travel over the valve stem and if the roller looks like it is going to roll off the header side of the valve stem you need shorter pushrods; and vice versa if it is barely rolling along the intake side of the valve stem. It should ride as close to center as possible the full length of travel.

 

Dude...why did you go with 7.00 pushrods.....did you get your heads milled?

Im thinking all of my problems stem from either bent/burned valves or valve adjustment issues.

-B

 

I didn't know if my heads were milled or not. When I was building the motor, I had some 7.200 rods from the last motor and was checking the valvetrain geometry with the new cam and all and found out I needed shorter rods because my rollers were almost rolling off of the header side of the valve stem